There are certain brands that collectors, journalists and watch enthusiasts love. Grand Seiko is one of those brands that we all love, even though our opinions may differ. It was only in 2017 that the Japanese imprint became a separate brand, stepping out from under Seiko. However, everyone had been aware of Seiko’s intentions to spin-off Grand Seiko as its own full brand since an announcement at BaselWorld sometime after the line became available internationally. Technically though, it helps to consider that Grand Seiko is really a deeply rooted part of Seiko’s grand history, and it earned its right to stand on its own merits. Seiko needed to establish that Grand Seiko’s merits were well-established before it could commit to an independently financed future. One way to understand all this is to visit Grand Seiko’s production facilities in Japan, which is obviously what we did.
Uniquely amongst our manufacture tours in this Legacy annual, we have very recently published a story on Grand Seiko’s industrial and artisanal bases. We felt that despite the wonderful story WOW Thailand shared, there was still more to say. The story in this summer’s issue focuses on the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi and also establishes the Seiko connection through Seiko House. The story that launched this chapter will be the one you read, but it is not necessary. It is mainly because we were able, during this visit, to experience and see the Atelier Ginza within Seiko House Ginza – where the Kodo’s are assembled – as well as Seiko Epson’s operations in Nagano. We could have written the entire story based on the sites that were not covered in the previous story, but instead we chose to tell it a bit differently.
Grand Seiko is not just a combination of different production sites. Grand Seiko is a Japanese company that produces all of its watches. Seiko’s resources are considerable. In reality, this tour would not have been possible without GSSS. We also know that collectors and our readers are always eager to find out more information about GSSS, so we have to oblige. We will remind you that Grand Seiko and Seiko in general do not have just one, two, or three production facilities. As an example, we observed the assembly of movements and casings at GSSS but components were being manufactured in a building adjacent.
Delectable Pieces
The best place to find out is at Seiko House Ginza where the Atelier Ginza was opened last year. There is only enough space here for half a dozen or so watchmakers. Only one was working when we were there (Time + Tide says that at least another watchmaker works here). We are told that at the moment, the watchmakers only work with the 9ST1 movements, which belong to the Kodo SLG003 (a magnificent timepiece). Takuma Kawauchiya was the watchmaker that we met. He is the man behind the development of the movement, and has gained the respect and admiration of many watch lovers and journalists. He showed us the prototype movement and explained to us that Atelier Ginza will be where Grand Seiko works on the best mechanical watches.
Its location, in the heart of Ginza, is no accident with Grand Seiko CEO Akio Naito (see our interview with him in this issue) confirming that Atelier Ginza is meant to be a sort of working showcase of the brand’s capabilities. This is a subtle way to communicate the brand and it allows collectors to see how a piece like the Kodo is lovingly put together. The location is on the 7th Floor of the Building and is only accessible with a prior appointment. However, the space is designed for visitors. Large see-through glass panels separate the foyer from workspace, which reinforces this. It’s a bit like the set-up of GSSS. A chocolate sculpture of the Kodo is also very appealing. It looks as delicious as the watch. We wonder how often Grand Seiko needs to replace it.
Back for seconds
Grand Seiko’s manufacturing operations are spread across a number different locations. We will return to the subject at the end. We want to make it clear that the information presented here is not in chronological order. We will now move directly to GSSS since Atelier Ginza has a spiritual connection with it. The Seiko facilities located in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture (where GSSS is) include a number production sites including Morioka Seiko Instruments Inc. and the nearly 2,000sqm Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. GSSS is a complex project that was completed just in advance of the 60th anniversary celebration of Grand Seiko.
This is a much more interesting and niche display than the museum in Seiko House Ginza. The first Grand Seiko from 1960 is also included as is the very first Seiko, dating back to 1913. This was the Laurel, which was also Japan’s first wristwatch; it is accompanied in a little display by the Marvel (1956) and the Crown (1959). This unassuming showcase illustrates that Grand Seiko’s legacy itself is far longer than its 60 years implies. This note may take up some space on our already limited pages, but an issue entitled Legacy simply cannot ignore this.
The GSSS’s compact size isn’t the most important thing about it. Its status as a Kengo Kuma design is. You will never forget the building if you visit and it is open to visitors. In the story we published in issue #69 about the GSSS, it was mentioned that everything is arranged in two levels. The ground level is particularly prominent, as this is where all the watchmaking takes place. Remember that the Kodo and other high-complication movements are not assembled in this area. However, the Tentagraph SLGC001, 9AS5 calibre, and the Tentagraph SLGC001 were assembled, finished, and tested here. Here, the capping up and testing is also done.
Springing forward
We have much more to tell about this but we need to move on to the final stop, before we run out space and must end abruptly. The last stop at the Nagano factories that manufacture the Spring Drive watches is the most complex. Seiko Epson is not a part of Seiko Group, or Seiko Watch Corporation. The name implies that this is a joint-venture between Seiko Watch Corporation and Epson. Seiko Epson, for collectors and enthusiasts is all about Spring Drive and quartz. It also includes another Seiko brand, Credor. Also included is Orient, which has nothing to with Seiko and everything to with Epson.
After all, Grand Seiko is the only brand that uses these spaces. For an article such this, it is helpful to have a name for the area. It’s called Shinshu Watch Studio. As with Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse-Nardin and Girard-Perregaux there are overlaps. This is especially evident in the Micro-Artist Studio where special dials, such as the Credor Echi II or the Credor chiming models are brought to life.
Shinshu Watch Studio has the most industrial-like set-up we’ve seen during our visit. Finishing and assembly are done in separate areas. This is also a space that demonstrates the industrial approach of making and finishing components. The production of hands and indexes is a good example. Steel hands get that signature blue color through heat treatments which are standardised (an open-air oven allows for many sets of hands being blued simultaneously). Anyone who has looked at the dial appliques and wondered whether they are individually polished will be amazed by the polishing of the indices. The answer is that they are both. A batch of them, all identical after all, can be loaded into an apparatus which allows a machine polish all relevant surfaces. It is necessary to track batches and polish them multiple times. You can see one example here (opposite, bottom page).
This is because the description can be used to describe virtually everything done at Seiko Epson by Grand Seiko. It includes everything from movement assembly (top of opposite page), to dial making (including Snowflake) and special touches, such as Zaratsu (creating distortion-free reflected surfaces on the case surface, below). The traditional methods are used, but they’re done with precision and rigour using modern technology and machining techniques. The calibres that are made here include 9F and 9RA5. We think that it is only right that Spring Drive movements continue to be made at the same facility that invented them more than 20 year ago (when it was known as Suwa Seikosha).
If nothing else, the final section of this story simultaneously reveals how complicated Grand Seiko’s production regime is. The other side of the coin is that this is part and parcel of a larger pattern. Kodo calibres are not manufactured in Shizukuishi. They are produced in Ginza. This led to some unfortunate but understandable errors in the publication (where images from SLGT003 had been used as illustrations for stories about GSSS). We are especially wary of any unforced mistakes in this article, but are confident that the more knowledgeable readers will point them out. The narrative in this final story on manufacturing sites should have convinced you that there are many differences even within the same manufacturer. If you are not convinced yet, well come back next year and we will try again…
This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy 2024 issue
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