It is becoming increasingly rare to need a suit. And with the impact of sportswear on men’s clothing, or at least the move to dressing more comfortably, it’s hardly surprising that tailoring is getting a major re-think.
But one product of this shift, the men’s unstructured blazer, is already here and has been proving its worth for a while. The unstructured men’s blazer eliminates the stiffness, stuffiness, and rigidity that are traditionally associated with tailoring. It creates a whole new category of clothing, similar to the sneaker/shoe hybrid.
Unlike the more rigid suit jacket, an unstructured blazer carries the recognized hallmarks of formal dressing but which – depending on what it’s teamed with – feels much more at ease. The result is that it looks more modern.
In short, the unstructured blazer is arguably the 21st-century’s greatest wardrobe essential, and if you don’t already own one, you need to get involved.
What is an unstructured blazer?
At first hearing, the term ‘unstructured’ blazer, or unstructured jacket, sounds like a bad thing: surely structure is something you want in tailoring? A traditional Savile Row tailor might say it’s essential for a jacket to hold its form and to strike the right silhouette.
It is still important to retain a formal look without sacrificing comfort. The unstructured blazer has no padding at the shoulder or chest. The jacket might even be without a lining or with only a half-lining so that there are enough pockets inside.
Massimo Dutti
In fact, the unstructured blazer is often close to being a medium to heavyweight shirt – but cut like a jacket, with lapels, vents and pockets. Or perhaps a cardigan, which is why sometimes this type of garment is referred to as a ‘cardigan’ jacket.
It’s important that you don’t cut corners on the cutting of your jacket. In a completely unlined suit, finishing is not to be skimped.
The result is a garment that’s ideal for the summer in particular, as it weights less than your typical suit jacket, and, being mostly lining-free, more breathable. Unconstructed blazers are also easier to fold and travel with. Wool has a natural stretch, so creases will disappear.
Massimo Dutti
The soft look is a great advantage because it allows for a variety of styles. Unstructured blazers are the jacket equivalent to a good pair of chinos. The blazer retains just enough formality to be dressed up in a shirt with tie but it is also casual enough to look good with a T-shirt or jeans.
The Best Brands for Unstructured Blazers
Rubinacci
A family firm established in 1932 by Gennaro Rubinacci and now run by his grandson Luca, Rubinacci’s style leans heavily towards Neapolitan dapper: think ribbed cashmere cardigans and slim, pleated, buckle-fastening trousers. It’s also one of the few places you’d pick up an unstructured double-breasted blazer.
Arket
Arket is the result of a team made up of fashion designers, buyers and pattern makers. Founded only in 2017, it’s the latest brand from the huge H&M stable with, as it puts it, a mission to democratise quality. You can check out the corduroy two-button jackets.
Beams plus
Beams Plus, the more expensive member of Beams’ Japanese family, was founded in 1976. It is inspired by Americana fashion, particularly 1950s sportswear and casualwear. Seersucker is the perfect fabric for summer.
Ermenegildo Zegna
It won’t ever be the cheapest option, but any tailoring from Zegna will likely become a wardrobe regular. With a long history in Italian tailoring – it pioneered the country’s first ready-to-wear suit – it’s a sign of the times that over recent seasons it’s moved towards softer, less structured styles.
Sunspel
Sunspel has the right materials to create a lightweight jacket. While founded in the 1850s, since the 1950s it’s been a specialist in the making of soft, breathable fabrics, most of which went into products worn next to the skin, the likes of underwear, T-shirts and polo shirts. The Merino wool jacket is perfect for all seasons.
Uniqlo
Uniqlo is a relatively new company in the West, but it was founded in Yamaguchi, Japan, in 1949. Focused on functional design with a minimalist style, it calls its stretchy, washable, quick-drying jacket a ‘comfort blazer’, which says it all.
Engineered Garments
New York-based Engineered Garments may be one of the many Japanese brands inspired by workwear to create contemporary, utility-minded clothing, but this doesn’t mean looking combat-ready. Designer Daiko Suzuki’s staple peak lapel Bedford blazer is soft but smart.
Universal Works
Co-founded and designed by David Keyte, the Nottingham-headquartered Universal Works focuses on simple contemporary menswear in the mould of Albam or Folk, much of it made in the UK. Semi-tailored coats are available in twills or poplins in a variety of colours.
J.Crew
J Crew launched in the 1980s, to follow the New England fashion popularized by Ralph Lauren at more affordable prices. Think chinos and button-down shirts, as well as relaxed tailoring. Their unstructured blazer comes in a cotton-linen mix that’s breathable but sturdy enough for use throughout the year.
Oliver Spencer
Fast becoming the new Paul Smith of British menswear – in his ability to give menswear classics a modern twist – Spencer started his fashion education on Portobello Market, before creating formalwear brand Favourbrook. Expect rich fabrics, bold colour and a stylish smart-casual look.
Three Ways to Wear an Unstructured Blazer
You can also find out more about our Casual Wear
Unless it’s on the way back from church, you wouldn’t usually think of wearing a traditional tailored jacket out for a Sunday pint. But this is when the unstructured blazer comes into its own, precisely because it’s suitably relaxed.
If your blazer has a unique shade, texture or pattern, pair it with dark jeans, white sneakers and a classic crew-neck T-shirt. In the colder months, you can also wear it over a fitted Merino cardigan and a T-shirt.
If it’s plain, try throwing it over a Breton striped T-shirt or lightweight sweatshirt. Don’t worry if your blazer is on the crumpled side – it’s what the Pitti peacocks call ‘sprezzatura’.
Zara
Smart Devices-Casual
The unstructured blazer is the quintessential garment for when you’re not quite sure just how smart, or not, you’re meant to be dressed.
To straddle the divide, wear yours with tailored chinos, a button-down shirt or crisp polo shirt and a pair of loafers – or premium sneakers, if doing so won’t mark you out as a sartorial pariah – and you’re good to go for most occasions, from meetings to weddings.
Bonus tip: Skip the tie – the unstructured blazer is sufficiently informal enough not to demand it.
Massimo Dutti
Smart
Unstructured Blazers are versatile and can be dressed to look very smart.
This isn’t a case of wearing it in a way to pass your attire off as a suit – so opt for separates in the form of tailored, flat-front trousers in a contrasting shade to the blazer. This is best worn in a wool-blend or cotton blend for smarter occasions.
An unstructured blazer arguably still warrants an ‘unstructured’ shirt – so wear a button-down Oxford rather than a dress shirt, with a similarly soft knitted tie. Finish the look with classic Oxfords or Derbys and a tie clip or silk square in your breast pocket for a formal touch.
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