Almost defiantly simplistic, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual could be seen as the purest distillation of everything the brand’s founder Hans Wilsdorf wanted to achieve – the creation of the definitive Swiss-made wristwatch. This is Rolex at its most pure – incredibly well-made, democratically priced and with a design that manages to be both contemporary and timeless.
It’s also technically the entry point to the Rolex world, less than half the price of the famous Daytona and at least £1,000 cheaper than the Submariner or GMT. Just don’t mistake the Oyster Perpetual for anything less than stellar mechanical matchmaking.
“They are real Rolex watches through and through,” says Stephen Pulvirent, managing editor at watch website Hodinkee, “and shouldn’t be viewed as a compromise or lesser watch when compared to other models across the collections.”
Rolex Oyster Perpetual – The Story
Oyster Perpetual is a collection that was born in 1926. The Oyster part refers to the world’s first water- and dust-proof wristwatch, which Rolex launched in 1926. Wilsdorf, according to legend, came up with the name when he was trying to open a mollusc during a dinner. He thought that his new case would be as difficult to open as his own shell and required special tools.
The second half is a reference to Rolex’s self-winding mechanism, which was invented in 1931 and named for its perpetual motion powered by the wrist. As Rolex’s collection expanded, the name ceased to refer to one specific collection and instead became a prefix, on to which the likes of Explorer, DateJust, Day Date, Daytona, Yacht-Master and Milgauss were attached.
Oyster Perpetual denoted the watch’s water-resistance and automatic movement, while the second name alluded to the added extras such as a distinctive 24-hour hand on the 1971 Explorer II, a watch designed for cave and polar explorers who need to know whether it’s day or night. Or regatta-chronographs like the Yacht-Master II of 2007. Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection with its three-hand simple design is the most affordable and wearable watch of the collection.
Modern Iterations
Until very recently, due to its more diminutive sizings – 26/31/34/36mm – the Oyster Perpetual collection’s primary audience was women. Some Rolex enthusiasts loved the vintage proportions of the 36mm and 34mm, but for most men they were too small. In 2015, a 39mm version was released.
The watch industry was ecstatic. Hodinkee’s founder Ben Clymer called them “simply superb but understated pieces that offer incredible versatility without costing a fortune, or showing off too much”. Rolex went back to basics in 2018, adding a black or white dial on all five sizes.
The Design
Given that there are quite a few luxury watches around now that owe a debt to the Oyster Perpetual – hi, Omega – it would be easy to dismiss the design as simply bordering on bland. However, that’s a bit like thinking Curb Your Enthusiasm looks a bit cliched now because its verité style has been pushed into the mainstream.
The Oyster Perpetual that was launched in 1931 still looks markedly similar to what Rolex is producing today and, when seen alongside styles unveiled around the same time, such as Longines’ Lindbergh Hour Angle and Patek Philippe’s Calatrava (1931 and 1932 respectively) it looks almost revolutionarily modern.
The details that stood out then are still there now – the curved lines of the outer case hugging the round bezel, the slim lugs, the polished lines, and brushed flat surfaces. The seconds sub-dial may have gone, there are certainly more dial color and indices options than there were in 1931 and the leather bracelet has been replaced with steel, but Wilsdorf would have no trouble recognizing today’s Oyster Perpetual.
What To Wear?
Reviewing the 2015 Release for Monochrome Watches, Brice Goulard said the “Rolex Oyster Perpetual sits right in the middle of two main types of watches. It’s neither a dress watch nor a sports watch. It’s what we call a casual timepiece. It’s like a Levi’s 501. It can be worn with your most hideous grey hoodie, or with a plain white shirt. Oyster Perpetual is no different. You can wear it during weekends with a pair of sneakers or during the week with your suit and tie.”
Although we all agree that the steel-on-steel design is very versatile, it lends itself to a more relaxed weekend style. It’s Armie Hammer dancing to Psychedelic Furs’ ‘Love My Way’ in Call Me by Your Name – all Converse hi-tops, blousy shirts, and almost-too-short shorts. Or a Cuban-shirted Leonardo DiCaprio brooding around Verona Beach in Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo and Juliet. Louche with a dash of practicality.
Oyster Perpetual iterations
While there are around 30 iterations of the Oyster Perpetual, chances are you’re not going to be interested in a 26mm with the purple dial, so here are the options a modern man should check out first.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 116000
While the real Rolex sticklers will say that 34mm is the correct option because that was the size of the original, it’s just too small for most men. If you’re looking for a vintage look in a larger case, the 36mm dial with blue is ideal. The dial is a shade of blue that has a 60s vibe. It’s similar to the original. For a bit of Riviera chic, pair with tonal linens.
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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 114300 (Dark Rhodium Dial) 114300 (Dark Rhodium Dial)
Even Rolex’s naysayers reached for their wallets when the 39mm Oyster Perpetual was introduced in 2015. Rhodium gray adds an air of menace to a watch that is otherwise very sporty. If you’re looking for a way to wear your Oyster Perpetual suitably, this is it.
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Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 114300 (White Dial)
White dial Rolexes are rare – a detail that only adds to the wow factor of this new 39mm Oyster Perpetual. Rather than opting for the white of a Hollywood A-lister’s teeth, this is something softer and more subtle, complementing the steel perfectly. If you’re embracing the Cuban collar shirt trend this season, then this exercise in restraint is the ideal foil.
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The Movement
Three movements are used in the Oyster Perpetual line. They are all made by Rolex, are self-winding, and are COSC certified. Of the three – 2231 for the 26 and 31mm, 3130 for the 34 and 36mm, and 3132 for the 39mm – it is 3130 and 3132 that have been enhanced with some flourishes of Rolex tech-wizardry.
The Parachrom Hairspring was introduced by Rolex in 2000 for the Cosmograph movement 4130. Rolex created an alloy that overcomes the weaknesses of the hairsprings made from ferromagnetic materials at the time. The instantly recognizable color of the dial is due to a surface-treatment process that enhances its long-term stability.
The 3132 has the added bonus of Rolex’s patented Paraflex shock absorber. First used in 2005, it replaced the KIF shock absorption system – a common system developed in the 1930s, which is identified by a golden three- or four-leaf clover-shaped spring clip around a ruby at the top of the balance. Rolex claims that its new Paraflex shock absorption system is 50% more effective and easier to produce and service. If you enjoy extreme sports, this is good news.
The Build Quality
The case construction has not changed much over the years. Solid, reliable watchmaking by the best in business.
Original was made up of three pieces: the central case with the lugs and the separate case-back, bezel and case-back, which were both screwed on. A metal ring that has external screwed-threads holds the dial, hands, and movement. This ring has a hole at 3 o’clock and a pin at 9 so that, when the ring is inserted into the case body, the pin fits into a matching hole in the case, while the crown and winding stem are fitted into the hole. The case back and bezel are screwed in place.
Modern Oyster case designs feature a middle case that is made of a solid piece of steel, 18ct Gold, or Platinum, a fluted caseback, a friction-fitted Sapphire crystal, and a bezel. To ensure optimum water resistance, Rolex has developed its own patented winding crowns – the Twinlock or the Triplock.
Twinlock gaskets are used in the Oyster Perpetual. They are water resistant to 100m. One gasket is placed inside the crown, and it compresses against the threaded tubes attached to the case. The other is located inside the tube of the watch. Between the two of them, they keep water and dust from getting into the movement even when the crown isn’t screwed in properly.
The Triplock – denoted with three dots under the logo – works in a similar fashion but with a larger case tube and four rubber gaskets, the first of which is visible when the crown is unscrewed.
The strap is also very similar, apart from the obvious change from leather to bracelet. The flat three-piece link construction was introduced in the late 1930s and remains an integral part of the collection today, with the only concession to progress being the more robust clasp – patented, of course. Otherwise, you don’t mess with the classics.