A gift of jewellery is a traditional symbol of affection and love due to the high value of its materials, such as gold or precious stones, and their beauty. The glimmer of diamonds, the air of grandeur and luxury, and innovation are the main stars of jewellery.
Many houses use intricate mechanisms to tell stories or convey messages. From securing mechanisms on a bracelet or necklace to interconnecting structures, these facets symbolise a jewellery house’s soul and reflect a storied past or message. For jewellery to be truly appreciated, it is important to recognize the connection and significance between the house mechanisms and their signature collections.
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Cartier: Love Collection
The Cartier Love Collection is one of history’s most distinct and recognisable collections. While it possesses timeless elegance and style, the famous piece is so much more than what meets the eye — its intriguing backstory and romantic significance. The Love bracelet was first unveiled in 1969 by Italian Jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo as a unisex “modern handcuff”.
What was unique about the Love bracelet was that it was secured with functional and decorative screws, designed to sit permanently on the wearer’s wrist. Given that it requires two people to secure the screws, the act of physically screwing on the bracelet signifies the permanence of enduring bonds and a symbol of love and commitment, hence a “modern handcuff”. Due to the closure mechanism, the message of romance is easily understood. The Love collection, since its inception, has evolved into different variations, including bracelets, rings and necklaces. It is now a global fashion icon and a huge success.
Bvlgari: Serpenti Collection
The Bvlgari Serpenti collection has grown to be an icon in the world of jewellery, with its distinct features of winding coils and serpent head central to the brand’s identity. Modern interpretations of serpents are distorted due to Christian depictions of serpents as evil entities in the Garden of Eden. Other parts and times of the world, like Greece, associated serpentine motifs with Asclepius. The God of Medicine, they represented wisdom, fertility, rebirth, and fertility. These positive traits were the main inspirations for Greek founder Sotirio Bolgari, when he built the house in Rome in the year 1884.
Bvlgari pieces feature Tobogas: a flexible band made of smooth, rounded, spirals. It is assembled without the use of solder. The slightly flexible coils and springy interlocking spirals conceal the inner structure making it more comfortable while still appearing luxurious. This innovative approach was in harmony with the serpent motif. It displayed the seductive allure and fluidity of the body of the serpent, wrapping around the wearer.
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Boucheron: question mark necklaces
In 1879, Frédéric Boucheron revolutionised the high jewellery world with his innovative clasp-free Question Mark necklace. The Question Mark necklaces were Boucheron’s gift to women, allowing them to slip the necklace on without further assistance. It symbolises a woman’s independence, freedom and empowerment, especially during a time of severe gender imbalance and restricted rights. The asymmetrical shape was also unusual during that time, which led it to be named the Point d’Interrogation — the Question Mark necklace. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this design highlights the Maison’s enduring ethos of innovation, which places focus on not only visual appeal but also meaningful values like emotion, the beauty of expression and the empowerment of women.
A functional spring system was added to the Question Mark Necklace, without compromising its aesthetic appeal. This innovation was significant at that time. The Question Mark necklace has grown to be an integral part of Boucheron’s identity and is still an everlasting icon in the world of high jewellery.
Chaumet: Liens Collection
Chaumet’s Liens has been a long-time staple for the brand and is a commemorative piece to celebrate the linking of two people through a piece of sentimental jewellery. The Liens collection was first released in the 1780s, inspired by the love between Napoleon and Joséphine. The Liens collection is characterised by an “X” motif that is present on an extensive repertoire of stunning rings, necklaces and bracelets.
The “X” motif is displayed in interlocking links or bridge-like links, symbolising the seamless uniting of two individuals who love each other, conveying the “sincerity of a relationship, the evidence that seals two fates”. The thoughtful design also represents the enduring pledge of eternal love and unfailing faith through the symbolic “X” motif that is forever interlocked like the enduring love of familial and romantic bonds. The Liens collection is timeless in its visual appeal, but also speaks to the past, the present, and the future with its heartfelt sentiments.
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Tiffany & Co. : Tiffany Lock Bracelets
The padlock motif has been synonymous with Tiffany & Co. for decades. The padlock motif was created by the brand to represent their interpretation of protection for love. The underlying message of the design drew inspiration from the primary function of a lock, which is designed to “keep safe that which is cherished” and that it is a universal symbol of what matters most.
In 2023, the Tiffany Lock was released, and inspiration was drawn from Tiffany’s earliest roots in 1883. The bracelets are unisex and feature a swivel mechanism that requires a full pull to open and close. The stories past of Tiffany’s padlock jewellery date back to 1883, when a customer commissioned a brooch in the shape of a padlock for his wife, engraving the message, “Fide et Amore,” Latin for “With Faith and Love.” The Tiffany lock is presented as a modern and genderless iteration of the brand’s core DNA, appealing to fashion trends that are not overtly feminine or masculine. The Tiffany Lock comes in a variety of sizes that allow lovers to lock padlock bracelets onto the wearer. The lock-on action is symbolic of love and loyalty that will last forever.
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