The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago located in the Pacific Ocean about 400 miles from the coast of Ecuador. The islands are a long way from the mainland and seem inhospitable for life. Yet, life has found a solution. Plants and animals mysteriously migrated over the ocean for thousands of years. They adapted, evolved and morphed into species very different from those of their continental ancestors. The Galapagos islands are home to half of all plant species and nearly all reptiles. The Galapagos Islands are a living lab of plants and creatures that are in an evolution phase.
Galapagos Islands Landscape – Seductive lures
Galapagos, an archipelago consisting of 14 volcanic island and more than 40 small islets, is located on the equator. Geologically speaking, these islands are young. The oldest ones are around 5,000,000 years old and the youngest ones still have volcanic activity forming them.
Each island developed its unique ecosystem. From lush, green forest, powdery beach, and rocky isles, to stark, volcano or desert landscapes. Charles Darwin was drawn to the Garden of Eden by its unmatched diversity. It is where he developed his theory of evolution.
Darwin discovered that the animal species on each island were adapted for the specific conditions. He was particularly interested in finches because he noticed that they had different kinds of beaks, depending on what food source they were eating. Approximately 13 species live on the islands today. Darwin’s theory extended to countless species now endemic to each separate island. Galapagos has become a holy grail to scientists and conservationists.
In the novel Moby Dick, this magical place was featured. The story of the sunk ship Essex was inspired by the Galapagos. The crew captured 360 tortoises and then managed to reach Floreana Island. After destroying the island completely, they left. Floreana Island continues to thrive despite the fictional Moby Dick. The real history of Galapagos has been equally destructive and also reminds us of frightening bedtime stories.
While today, the Galapagos attracts luxury cruises and mundane eco-conservationists, the islands possess a colourful history, beginning as a hideout for pirates in between all their pillaging escapades, and progressed to the delightful whalers and seal-fur hunters, who slaughtered several species, including the giant tortoise, close to extinction.
Fast forward through violent convict uprisings and settler assassinations to perhaps the most perplexing episode, where prisoners were forced to construct a massive wall in inhumane conditions, aptly named the “Wall of Tears’’, for no other purpose but to make them suffer. The remnants of this charming wall are still present.
With the outbreak of World War II, the islands’ location became a strategic military importance for the protection of the Panama Canal. Santa Cruz and Baltra served as a small military base to support the US’s efforts in the Pacific theater. Since then, they have been the tranquil site of some of the world’s foremost conservation efforts and marine and terrestrial research, as well as an epicentre of tourism in South America.
After the discovery of these volcanic islands by the West, it took millions of year for humans to settle the area. Traveling often creates the strongest bonds with a new place through its inhabitants. We had a misconception that the archipelago was home to a rich culture and history native tribe. So began the gradual realignment between expectations and reality.
In just 25 years, the islands housed 3,000 people, mostly but not exclusively from Ecuador. It is now a mixture of different ethnicities, customs and traditions, with cultural influences from Europe and America as well as Ecuador.
As migrants began to arrive to take advantage growing economic opportunities related to tourism and conservation, this number has increased by tenfold. Around 180,000 tourists visit this well-oiled machine every year. Tourism is dependent on the health of ecosystems, which are threatened by the growing population.
It seems that it is simultaneously supporting scientific and conservation efforts, and destroying those things which need to be conserved and studied. This results in an increase of taxis, buses and boats.
There are so many people, it’s breathtaking, but more in a hyperventilating, did I get this all wrong, kind of way. Surely this isn’t the same place that complies with the countless glossy pictures of Garden of Eden-type environments, a showcase of evolution, a wonder of the world? It dawns with a thud that these “pure and untouched” islands are clearly not as pure and untouched as perceived. The disappointment is crushing.
Until it isn’t. There is a certain charm to the cacophony created by sea lions who bark on land and in water. Tip-toeing in front of baby sea wolves with their soulful, deep eyes that seem to be unconcerned by the presence people. These cheeky creatures are like large puppies chasing after treats in the fish market.
Currently, only four of the 18 islands are inhabited by people – Isabela, Santa Cruz, Floreana, and San Cristobal. Galapagos National Park takes care to maintain and protect the remaining islands.
The adventure begins at Punta Pitt on San Cristobal Island with a wet boat landing. Our adventure begins with a wet landing by boat in Punta Pitt, San Cristobal Island. Contours of barren, wind-eroded peaks surround us, a volcanic wasteland sparsely inhabited by saltbush and spiny shrubs. Vesuvius’ carpets are a striking red-orange color, piercing the surface of this predominantly black terrain.
This landscape is harsh, but also strikingly beautiful. The Blue Footed Booby Birds are a world renowned species. The first sight of this unusual bird is one that few can match. They nest on the ground within a ring of their own sprayed poo, so comfort isn’t high on their agenda.
Their fluffy, white-webbed babies grow into awkward, tufted teenagers with aqua colored feet that look like they’ve been painted. The adults’ webbed feet are a deep, rich blue, their ungainly foot-slapping waddle and piercing eyes make for an entertaining sight. Seeing these iconic webbed creatures was definitely a bucket-list worthy highlight, though I discover that each new experience in this natural nirvana threatens to trump the last.”
Our drift snorkel takes us along the small volcanic rock island, off the coast of San Cristobal. As we gently float along the coast, we see a giant bull wolf sea wolf (Lobos Marinos).
He dives around and under us, territorially but with a sense of play. In the depths, Galapagos sharks and white-tipped ones lurk. Rays glide majestically past. A colorful array of tropical shell the water as a puffer fish floats too close for his comfort and pops his little body out.
The sights are intimate and precious without any crowds or boats. We float, literally, to the pick-up point as the tender waits in the lee, where the currents have a tendency to ease.
It’s like walking onto another planet when we step off our boat and onto the black rock shelf at Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island. Opuntia Cactus, a strange paddle-like cactus, provides the sharp surface. The Galapagos Islands are home to a key species of cactus, which provides food for tortoises and Iguanas.
We are taken to a totally different landscape by walking along the prickly and strange trail. Powder-soft white sand, silky soft underfoot, this surf beach is bizarrely populate with hundreds of prehistoric looking marine iguana, which Charles Darwin named, “imps of darkness”
They stare at us, unaffected by our presence. They are the only iguanas that feed exclusively underwater. Their attended tail allows them to glide, crocodile style, below the water’s surface. They are imposing with their long spikes and shedding skins.
They filter the salty water from the ocean by sneezing through their sharp, spiney snouts. It’s not pretty. While all signs indicate that they are a creature to be avoided, their strangeness is what makes them so fascinating.
Surface texture is created by uneroded pahoehoe pahoehoe, tree-trunk molds and hardened bubbles. This century-old lava flow stretches as far as the eyes can see. It has now solidified to form a sheet which runs along the edge of sea. Imagine how the lava would have flowed, bubbled, and covered everything it touched. Lava pools, caves, and inlets can be found along the long, flat lava shorelines. Santiago is one of the most volcanically active islands in the archipelago, and Sullivan Bay’s rough terrain of flowing lava fields was unsurprisingly an intriguing stop to Darwin’s itinerary. James Bay, located in the northwest corner of the island is home to a pahoehoe lava flow.
Charles Darwin, during his stay on the island found glass pieces embedded in the flow. These pieces were discovered to be quince marmalade jars. 1684 was molded into the base of each jar. The volcanic flow embedded a buccaneer’s marmalade stash permanently. This ow, now referred to as the “Marmalade Pot Flow”, therefore must have erupted between the jars manufacturing in 1684 and Darwin’s arrival in 1835. Today the “Marmalade Pot Flow” remains frozen in time within a black shiny veneer of basaltic glass.
In the misty, cool highlands, nestled amongst otherworldly scalesia, cactus trees, and the ancient Galapagos tortoise, one of the oldest species in the world. The Galapagos Islands are not complete without a visit to these massive lumbering creatures. After hiking in the heat for five hours, we decided to drive to Reserva El Chato.
The rangers, who were once farmers, have protected the area by hunting predators and creating safe spaces to stop the destruction of the tortoise populations. Slow and meaty in nature, tortoises were nearly hunted by humans to extinction. Today, these grounds are heavily protected.
You can see large, mature wild turtles in their natural habitat. These primordial creatures grow up to five feet long, weigh over 500 pounds, and have been known to live over 150 years, making them the largest turtles on earth, and the world’s longest living vertebrates.
Underwater view of the Galapagos Green Sea Turtles (Chelonia agassizi).
You can walk through the damp ground, wearing enclosed wet weather shoes, and around the muddy ponds with their large domes, heads buried in the mud. The pond baths are believed to be a thermoregulation system that regulates temperature. The pond baths could rid them of ticks and insects, or they may simply enjoy the feeling.
The majority of these tortoises migrate into the lowlands during the wet seasons where they nest and mate before returning to highlands in the dry seasons. According to legend, the only way you can be bitten is by placing your hand in its open mouth and waiting patiently. The tortoises’ jaws have sharp ridges and are very strong. They could easily bite a finger off if it was mistaken for food.
With the two-metre rule that applies to all creatures on the Galapagos, we are reminded of the need to respect the docile and gentle animals. The Galapagos is home to sensitive beings that will withdraw into their carapaces when you get too close or make sudden movements.
Sit quietly and patiently, and you may get a closer glance. I slowly shift my position when one walks past me, almost nudging me to gain access to the rough path.
The gentle creatures even have a way to fight each other that is passively aggressive. They face each other and give their most vicious glares. They then open their mouths while stretching their heads as high as possible. The winner of the fight is the one who reaches his head the highest. Meanwhile, the loser will pull his head back into his shell to signify that the battle has ended.
In between the excitement of island visits, there’s plenty of time for reflection while travelling by boat. Others look at their photos, others disconnect from life and enjoy the moment. Still others battle nausea and motion sickness. At different times, I was each of these people.
This is an issue that Galapagos continues to face. There are many different treaties and government recommendations in place.
To limit population growth and to reduce the number of Ecuadorians in Puerto Ayora – the main economic center – the government has been evicting thousands of Ecuadorians since 2009. Now, it is impossible to apply for permanent residence on the islands. It has created an unethical dilemma on the islands, where many residents feel they are no longer as important as the animals they care for in order to benefit a booming tourist market.
It is equally hard to argue with the government’s stance that without the wildlife there wouldn’t be a booming economy for the Ecuadoreans to benefit from. Regardless of politics, locals continue to devote their lives not only to protect and preserve but also to allow access to this UNESCO-awarded world heritage site.
Our guides were so informative and enthusiastic that by the end of the trip we felt like wildlife experts. They were able to enrich our experience with their local knowledge.
Due to the fragile ecosystem of the Galapagos archipelago and its priceless natural resources, the Ecuadorian government heavily regulates the tourist industry on the islands. The Galapagos Islands are a National Park, so there can only be one or two ships in any port or disembarkation point at a given time.
The permits to access the islands and waterways cost a lot, and tenders cannot run to the shore. We faced many challenges after arriving by superyacht. To set foot off the yacht requires a taxi boat, to access the islands takes planning, a registered local guide and heavily restricted boat hire. Expecting the autonomy of travelling on your own boat is a grave disappointment. It’s hard not to notice the many ways that the Galapagos Islands have been tainted by the immense growth in tourism over the years, to doubt that it can live up to its immense hype.
Documentaries show spectacular footage of this archipelago. They capture seemingly impossible angles and countless endemic animals. These images made me believe that this archipelago was a hidden garden. A remote tropical paradise filled with unimaginable wildlife.
I could have imagined it perfectly. All of that and more. It was all of this and so much more. The Galapagos is a place of legends. As we explored the geography and landscapes of the islands, we stood on rivers of lava, crossed salt water lagoons with amingos. The wildlife. There is no way to prepare for these close encounters with the natural world. The impossible angles captured by the documentaries? I also caught them.
There are more people in the world than you think.
It is indeed expensive. It is expensive.
Will you regret it? No, not for a minute.
Book a cruise to the Galapagos Islands
Words & Photos: Melanie Jai, Who Visited Abroad A 50M Super-yacht
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