We wear trousers in the UK and not pants. They’re cuffed to show off our trainers, not our sneakers. When the shoes become dirty, we throw them away in the bin rather than the garbage. But we’ll gladly welcome one US import, even though it refers to an item so British you could serve it with bacon and beans.
Across the Atlantic, our ‘full brogue’ becomes the ‘wingtip’. Both denote a shoe that, as our prosaic term doesn’t suggest, features a leather ‘W’ at the toe that echoes a bird seen mid-beat. The tips of your shoe have a pair of wings. Wingtips. Thank you for your kind words, Hemingway’s land.
We prefer ‘wingtip’ not just for its poetry. This term provides some needed specificity. Men’s footwear styles are awash in interlocking and often contradictory definitions. Broguing refers to only the holes punched into the toes. But it is used to describe any shoe that has detailing. Equally, it’s possible to find wingtips without broguing – a smooth toe cap, but still with that swoop of leather toward the heel. These are sometimes called austerity shoes, which is a bit confusing.
It is thankfully easier to wear them. “Although they are a traditional style, wingtips must be the most versatile shoe ever,” says Andrew Loake, head of the eponymous Northampton shoemaker.
The devil lies in the details. Their extra texture makes wingtips a mite more casual than plain lace-ups, so they’re happy sat beneath your dark denim as well as your suit. “We don’t find there’s a specific man that wears wingtips,” adds Loake. “In decades gone by they looked good with Oxford bags and now they’re equally good with skinny jeans.”
The History Of Wingtip Shoes
The wingtip was born from the brogue, which wasn’t always a shoe that one could wear to nice restaurants. “They were originally made from plaited hair and perforated, to allow water to pass in and out,” says Neil Kirkby, from Joseph Cheaney. That feature made life more pleasant for Irish farmers, who spent much of their day tramping through bogs and didn’t fancy taking the water with them. The name is derived from the Gaelic term bróg, which means ‘shoe’, although ‘Brogue’ didn’t enter the lexicon until the 1900s, to denote footwear you’d wear for a muddy ramble.
At first, no decent sort would attempt brogues anywhere else. But, just as brown crept into town and hats slipped off heads, society gradually accepted that having some holes in your shoes wasn’t such a crime, so long as they were deliberate. The Duke of Windsor wore his shoes on the course to help speed up the acceptance.
As shoes became more fashionable, shoemakers began to experiment. “The wingtip is just a toe cap in a curvy shape,” says Tim Little, owner of Grenson. “The origins of the toecap aren’t certain but the assumption is that it was originally reinforcement for the toe, to protect it from excessive wear and tear. At some point, someone made the straight toe cap into a more elegant shape, and it stuck.”
That movement from function to form, coupled with menswear’s general shift more casual, moved the wingtips from weekend to weekday too. “These days they’re obviously quite formal, although they were regarded as more casual than a straight toe cap,” says Little. “A bank manager, for example, wouldn’t wear them before the 1950s.” Nowadays, your bank manager’s probably swapped the suit for selvedge jeans and an unstructured blazer. But he’ll still be wearing wingtips.
What are the different types of Wingtip Shoes?
Modern wingtips look nothing like bog waders. They’re now a wardrobe essential and, as befits any menswear staple, have been twisted into new and occasionally unrecognizable shapes.
Classic Wingtips
For leather shoes, the black color is the most sophisticated, followed by a range of browns, from lightest to darkest. The colors are considered casual. Detailing is also important; less is better. Intricate broguing or unusual leathers are not suitable for smart outfits.
Longwings
The wingtip is not the only shoe that has a cousin. It also has a unique feature, which can be seen from behind. “On a classic wingtip, the wing comes along the side of the shoe and dips down into the sole about half way along the shoes,” says Little. “On a longwing, the wing comes along the side of the shoe, all the way to the back.”
The Austerity Brogues
They are plain, no broguing wingtips. Since they’re plain, they dress up a touch further, although they’ll still look just as good with jeans.
Wingtip Boots
The same as wingtips but continue higher than the ankle. As with any brogue boots, they’re more casual so work best with casual trousers or split suits.
Spectator Shoes
These are wingtips in contrasting colors – one shade of leather for the toe cap, another for the rest of the brogue. “Two-tone versions are taken from colonial references,” says Kirkby. Even though they were considered flamboyant in the 1920s. These days they tend to drag the eye from everything else you’re wearing, so should be worn with care.
Wingtips with a Twist
In the last few seasons, classic styles have been resurrected by brands.
The Buyer’s Guide
When you buy the right pair, they will go with anything. And don’t be shy about opening your wallet; it’s an area of your wardrobe where every pound pays back dividends. If you spend a bit extra you’ll be more comfortable, more stylish and your shoes could last more than a decade. The key factors to consider are listed below.
The Soles
“They should have a Goodyear welting construction,” says Loake. “A traditional style should be made the traditional way.” It also makes your shoes hardier and means you can swap the soles out easily when they get worn, rather than tossing the entire shoe after a year.
The Upper
If they’re not leather, move on. There’s a reason it’s been the material of choice for centuries – it’s hard-wearing but breathable and ages beautifully over time. If you’re after something more casual, try suede, says Kirkby. Always check the forecast.
The Wingtip
As curved leather is more difficult to stitch than a toe that is straight, you should check the quality of the work. “The balance of the style is critical,” says Kirkby. “Look for the correct spacing from the toe section to the lace section.” Beware styles that look cramped or overly airy.
How to Care for Wingtips
As with any leather shoe, wingtips will reward you for the effort. You could pass them on to your children if you treat them well.
Prep the Soles
Leather soles may be more stylish, but require a little extra care. “Try to wear them in dry conditions on the first few occasions,” says Loake. “The fine grit picked up by dry leather soles assists water resistance.”
Dry Them out
You may love your new wingtips, but don’t wear them back-to-back. “Fine leather shoes can require a full day to dry out from natural perspiration,” says Loake. “Try to give them at least 24 hours between wears.” If they don’t dry, the leather can warp, which will cause damage that can’t be reversed. The same’s true if you get caught in a storm. Just keep them away from radiators – rapid drying is the quickest way to wreck your shoes. “Newspapers can be used within the shoe to draw out moisture.”
Use A Shoe Horn
Once the backs of your shoes break, they’ll never look as good. Protect them. “Always use a shoe horn when putting them on or taking them off,” says Loake. “This will keep the backs strong and sturdy.”
Clean and Polish
“Wingtips will benefit from a regular application of quality wax polish,” says Loake. “This helps to moisturize the leather, keeping it supple and helping to prevent cracking.” Wipe them clean before smearing on polish and use a toothpick to pick the excess out of the broguing, to stop gunk building up.
Wingtips: The best brands for shoes
Grenson
Northamptonshire is known for its high-quality shoe brands. Grenson is no doubt responsible for this. Founded by William Green in 1866, Grenson – an abbreviation of William Green and Sons – became known as such in 1913, and has peddled sterling wingtip shoes ever since.
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Ted Baker
You wouldn’t necessarily consider Ted Baker as a go-to for wingtip kicks. But you should. The British label is a master at producing shoes in a variety of colors, including classics like black and brown, as well as more daring options such as blue leather or suede.
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Russell & Bromley
Simon and Garfunkel, Salt-N-Pepa, actual salt and pepper – all duos that pale in comparison to Russell & Bromley. Still run as a family venture, the British footwear label began in 1873 as the marriage between two shoemaking clans, and the wingtip shoe collection is testament to the brand’s expertise.
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Thom Browne
Thom Browne is dizzyingly costly and, well, dazzling. New York-based designer Thom Browne debuted his first collection back in 2003. Since then, he has expanded into menswear, footwear, and accessories. Sure, you’ll be paying through the nose for a pair of his wingtip shoes, but Thom Browne is the ultimate in luxury stateside clobber.
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Church’s
It may be part-owned by Prada these days, but Church’s is a British brand through and through. Thomas Church, his three sons and the Northamptonshire Technical College were founded in 1873 by the eponymous Thomas Church. Today, you can expect a range of wingtip shoes in classic leathers that’ll serve every smarter look imaginable.
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Barker
Barker, another jewel of Northamptonshire’s crown, has been in business for more than 135 years. It produces 200,000 pairs kicks per year. To anchor your suit, you’ll only need a pair. Choose a pair of black or brown wingtips. Buy Now:
Loake
Loake, a family-run shoemaker with over 130 years’ experience in the business, has been making wingtips in the same factory since 1894. That’s a lot of footwear. That expertise means you can expect nothing less than classic British craftsmanship from one of the country’s most storied labels. Buy Now:
Cheaney
Cheaney made 2,500 pairs per week of boots for the boys during World War I. No mean feat. These days, it’s more focused on the everyman than the infantryman, but the same level of military precision is evident in the brand’s line of wingtip shoes, brogues, boots and loafers.
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Oliver Sweeney
Oliver Sweeney’s wingtip shoes are made in the same factory, run by a family, in Marche on the Adriatic Coast in Italy. From there, a multitude of traditional kicks in a range of suedes and leathers are shipped to British shores to complement Oliver Sweeney’s mainline of clothing and accessories. Italians are better at it after all.
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Base London
The young British shoe shop offers a variety of wingtips. Fast fashion meets high-street price at this shoe shop. Choose from an endless array of colors, leather finishes, and sole options. Whether you want to look traditional at the office or fashion-forward at leaving time, you’ll find something here and probably have changed from £100.
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Dune London
Dune exploded from a small concession on London’s Oxford Street in 1992 to a global brand with hundreds of stores and a presence in 10 countries. Dune’s reputation as a brand with a huge selection and affordable prices is confirmed by its quality collection of wingtips, which includes classic work shoes, boot styles and more sober options that have fashion-forward features like contrast laces.
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Clarks Originals
Clarks has put men on solid ground for generations. They are the cobbler’s version of your uncle. You can come to him with any issue and get a reasonable solution. Here you’ll find classic chunky stompers as well as more modern features such a contrast-colour soles or cushioned insoles.
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Crockett & Jones
Since its founding in Northampton, England, in 1879 this family-run company has made quality footwear that is good enough for James Bond and Antarctic explorers’ feet (in Spectre) alike. Expect the finest quality leathers and Goodyear welting that’s second to none. You can choose between a textured finish with scotch-grain or a smooth calf leather.
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ASOS
The internet’s one-stop shop for all things menswear does – surprise, surprise – a good line in affordable wingtips. From own-brand brogues that cost less than a night out, through steady mid-level shoes from the likes of Kurt Geiger through to Goodyear-welted stompers from firm favorites such as Grenson, there’s a shoe here for every foot.
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Tricker’s
Makers of some of England’s best boots and shoes since 1829, Tricker’s calling cards are exceptional quality leather and a hand-made process that ensures your wingtips last longer than anything else in your wardrobe.
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