Although it may not be obvious, scents and perfumes play a major role in how we present ourselves to the world. It is an invisible accessory that dates back to ancient times; it allows one to embrace self-expression and is an integral step in most people’s routines. The unique significance that comes along with fragrances is their ability to make lasting impressions, enhance personal appeal and act as a tool for self-expression — all through intangible olfactory senses.
The decision to buy perfume is a very personal one. The names of perfumes are very important, as they give the product an identity and soul, making it more appealing to potential buyers. The name of the fragrance can be used to determine a person’s desire before they have even smelt it. In addition, they can be a major factor when a customer is deciding between options.
As we’ve seen in recent years, fragrances are now more complex and multidimensional than ever. We see more unconventional notes mixed with florals and musky staples. Perfume names now vary significantly — some adopt a very direct approach, simply naming the product according to the an object or a place the scent intends to replicate or an indirect approach that involves a scent that emulates olfactory characteristics of a certain object, atmosphere or place that an individual has experienced. While some fragrances take on an abstract approach, with scents intended to evoke feelings or ideas that do not have a clear definition or applicability to real life and is up to one’s personal interpretation. These different approaches are used to story-tell, convey a brand’s narrative or to invoke certain thoughts and emotions through intangible olfactory senses. These factors can also be used to help a brand market to a particular consumer base or strengthen its brand identity. This is done by using complex or simple names for products that appeal to mass markets or create shock value. LUXUO will analyze the meaning and connection between fragrances and names in three categories: direct and indirect.
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Direct Connections
Marc Jacobs Splash Collection
Marc Jacobs first released his Splash collection in the early 2000s. It has since been rereleased and redesigned to meet the demand of the public. The Splash Collection consisted of unisex perfumes intended to capture summer’s small joys. Each perfume had one-word names that directly conveyed the object it embodied like — Rain, Cotton, Pear and Cucumber. Each scent had multiple notes, all of which are conventionally pleasant and associated with smelling “fresh and clean”. The product was also lightly colored and contained in a square glass bottle that had subtle branding. The simple, no-frills naming of the product not only avoided being too masculine or female but also conveyed a lighthearted and simplistic feel that appealed greatly to the mass-market.
Jo Malone
Jo Malone London has a wide range of affordable perfumes and is widely accessible. Like Marc Jacobs Splash Collection the brand takes a simple, no-frills approach to developing and marketing their products. The packaging of most Jo Malone colognes is monochromatic, with transparent glass bottles, and simple branding. This conveys the product’s unisex nature and suitability for everyday use. The brand is straight-forward in naming each scent, typically combining the the top and the heart note like ” English Pear & Freesia”, “Lime Basil & Manderin” and “Wood Sage & Sea Salt”. Given that majority of the brand’s colognes come in the exact same packaging, the direct and straight-forward names aids a consumer’s decision-making process. A consumer is able to pick out scents according to personal preferences with just a short glance at a product’s name instead of taking the time to sample many different scents that may not appeal to them at all. Direct naming, such as the Jo Malone perfumes, can elevate the shopping experience for a potential customer, eliminating the overwhelm and indecision they might feel when deciding between a wide variety of fragrances.
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Indirect Connections
Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club
The Maison Margiela’s cult-favourite perfume line named “Replica” was inspired by the brand’s desire to replicate one’s fondest personal memories, the fragrances allowing a wearer to relive the magic of a potential time in their lives. While some of the Replica scents are relatively straight-forwards, scents like “Jazz Club” adopts a more indirect approach to emulate the distinct characteristics of a certain atmosphere. With the name “Jazz Club”, the brand intends to embody the intimate atmosphere of a New York jazz club, where the scent of whiskey and cigars fill the room. The ambiguous indirect name of the fragrance almost acts as an explanation as to why woody notes and gourmand notes are combined — given that jazz clubs are associated with alcohol, smooth jazz and elements of sensuality and darkness. The rum absolute, pink pepper, vanilla bean, and tobacco leaf notes work together with the name of the fragrance to evoke a feeling of nostalgia.
Killian Paris’ “Moonlight in Heaven”
Killian Paris is well-known for developing unique and bold scents inspired by founder Killian Hennessy’s life experiences. Inspiration is drawn from “A dazzling beam of pearlized light dances on the oceans belly, witnessed by two lovers who watch from a balcony draped in floating white opaque gauze that seems alive, responding to a warm wind that blows,” as per the Killian Paris website. Coconut, creamy mango, and powdery Jasmine notes are full-rounded scents that represent the moon. The citrus-forward opening with grapefruit and lemon notes depict the shimmering effect the “Moonlight” aspect of the name, emulating the shimmering effect of moonlight in the night time. Along with some aquatic notes, these factors harmonise to create serene feelings of lightness and ease, words that one might associate with “Moonlight in Heaven”. This name also evokes feelings of fantasy, escapism and wanderlust. The scent memory fragrance transports the wearer into their own personal paradise.
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Abstract Connections
Etat Libre d’Orange “You or Someone Like You”
Etat Libre d’Orange is famous for their unusual and abstract fragrances, typically using unconventional or thought-provoking names that leave interpretation up to the consumer. The “You or Someone Like you” is intended to embody the scent of what an “LA woman would wear”, based on a book of the same title by Chandler Burr. The book was about an English-born Anne Rosenbaum that feels out of her element in Los Angeles’ fantastical atmosphere. The fragrance was made with this character as the canvas, emulating the “smell of Hollywood Hills Captured” and possessing the characteristics of “coolly crisply English, covered in but untouched by the silver, materialistic movie industry, literary, somewhat removed.” The connection of the scent and its name is completely dictated by the interpretations of the wearer, as there is no real example of how the “Hollywood Hills” smell nor a “materialistic movie industry”. The citrus-forward scent features grapefruit, mint, and bergamot notes amongst others. Perhaps the fresh notes represent a fresh-faced individual striving to fit into a society as suggested also by the name “You or Someone Like you” or it could conversely be interpreted to display the idea of conformity in certain societies.
Asphalt Rainbow
Asphalt Rainbow draws inspiration from the “breaking the rules” attitude of global street art. Borrowing from the depictions of vibrant street art, the brand created a scent that is representative of “a roughed up rose that’s been hyper-coloured, torn apart and twisted on its head, then nailed to the wall for your sniffing pleasure”. Rose acts as the fragrance’s top note which is “distorted” and “morphed” by woody notes like wood, amber and asphalt, emulating the act of graffiti with untouched walls decorated with spray paint. One can tell by the name that this fragrance is bold. It may also be indicative of urban cultures and a mixture of different notes. There is no standard scent of what global street art may smell like but with every individual comes their own perception of what the “breaking the rule attitude” would entail and what they may associate with art in urban culture. The ambiguous name of the fragrance prompts thought and conversation.
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