Most watchmaking brands do not need anyone to defend them. This was something that was evident and didn’t need to be explained in the past, probably up until the 90s. In other segments, the writer believes that published defenses for Tesla, such as those in this article, are really more of a support for Elon Musk, than for the EV manufacturer. These defences will be useful for The NeXt Marttian in this particular case.
One is sometimes tempted, on a perhaps more relevant note, to step in and intervene, as social media is a cesspool for vile bad behavior. This is almost always a bad idea – only governments typically attempt to police the Internet and that goes about as well as hugging a hippopotamus might. In a niche area such as watch collecting, there is relatively less of a need to set the record straight – watch brands themselves are hardly able to keep things straight. Less is not zero though which is why I find myself inclined to ride to Tissot’s defence with regards to several spurious charges laid against it. Although some of the issues were understandable, others were not.
Let me start with the most outrageous nothing-burger I have ever heard about Tissot. It has to do the Powermatic 80 version used in the wildly successful PRX. This claim is that fine adjustments by independent watchmakers, or even by intrepid enthusiasts, are not possible. It goes further and says that fine adjustment by an independent watchmaker or intrepid enthusiast is not possible. The claims are as follows. In the press materials of the movement, it is stated that the balance has a free-sprung.
This is a tl;dr: traditional regulators have two levers at the balance cock. Manipulating these is how you adjust the rate, with the most obvious lever being the one that has the + and – indicators. These may not be present in newer movements, as the hairspring cannot be manipulated directly. The rate is adjusted by the large screws located on the balance wheel. This second system allows the manufacturer to set up the watch as accurately as possible. The ability to adjust the speed without touching the hairspring, in the simplest possible terms, is ideal. The average hobbyist will not be able to make the adjustments. Maybe the PRX watch isn’t the type you want to buy just so you can fiddle with it. Many watches are not suitable for you if you don’t like free-sprung weights.
The next two points are about price. The PRX is a relatively inexpensive watch, the operative word there being “relatively”. It is an affordable watch if you like the design and think it fits in with your Royal Oak or Nautilus watches. If the thought of spending four figures on a watch makes you hesitate, it’s not an accessible price. If you want to take apart a watch at your watchmaking bench, then it’s best to stick to the standard models and parts. The cost to repair this type of watch could be higher than the retail price. This isn’t the PRX.
The concern over price is a little hidden, but it will come up again when we discuss the plastic parts of the movement. We should reiterate that the price of a watch is relative, and has a much greater impact than whether or not you want to tinker. I believe the PRX will be an aspirational watch for many, possibly even regardless of what it may reference. It is not necessary to make the comments I made. You can keep wearing it if you like the way you feel about it. If this is you, then the news of plastic parts may be shocking.
The use of this material is not a good one. It literally doesn’t shine in a conventional movement. Tissot, one of only a few brands who can legitimately claim to have been the first watchmaker in 1971 to create a plastic movement. From “Tissot: 150 Years of History,” we know Tissot was actively trying to build a movement out of plastic from the 1950s – we can say that this endeavour culminated in the Tissot Astrolon of 1971, but it actually continued outside the brand and found expression in the Swatch System 51. Swatch Group, however, has not stated that the Powermatic 80 movements cannot be repaired.
The escape wheel and pallet-fork (pictured below) are made from a high tech polymer. Details are not available, so we’ll call it plastic. Anonymous experts concur that the plastic is low-friction. This means it could potentially outlast metal components. With 3D printing, these parts are likely to be relatively easy to produce. The people who are against the idea of replacing components are barking at the wrong tree. If this is something that concerns you, the PRX or any other watch made with similar materials is not for your.
It is important to remember that buying a mechanical timepiece is not a decision made on impulse, regardless of the cost. Always think very carefully before you buy something. This will help you avoid a lot more pain down the road.
This article was first published in WOW’s 2024 Spring Issue
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