At New York Fashion Week, Peter Do highlights modern minimalism for Helmut Lang debut garnering rave reviews, Ralph Lauren marks their return to New York with a glamourous showcase of gold lamé and fringe while newcomer Singaporean Grace Ling makes headlines with an anthropomorphic collection that melded metal with the human form. In other breaking news, Sarah Burton’s departure from Alexander McQueen once again shines a spotlight on the ever evolving landscape of fashion and its revolving doors of fashion creative directors.
1. Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut
As one of the most highly-anticipated showcases in New York, Peter Do certainly delivered with his own brand of a modern minimalism at Helmut Lang’s Spring 2024 collection. Honing in on a new take on luxury, Do’s directional aesthetic was made abundantly clear — utilitarian meets urban sensuality. The show was a reflection of the city in which it took place. From the location — the fourth-floor of a loft in the Meatpacking District to printed motifs featuring 90s photos of taxis displaying Helmut Lang advertisements. Bright fusha and neon-coloured seat-belt-like sashes adorned sharp-shouldered fitted jackets while manipulation of fabric and textiles hugged the body alongside wordings displayed on white shirting in an ode to Do’s Vietnamese roots.
2. Ralph Lauren Returns to New York
Perhaps it was an omen of goodluck but there was something about watching 90s supermodel Christy Turlington gliding down the runway in a one-shouldered cascading gold Lamé gown that sent hearts of fashion enthusiasts around the world aflutter — talk about a comeback. The collection was an ode to Bohemian dress with floral prints and embroidered beading, as well as dresses and gowns lined in chiffon. This was his Lauren’s first New York Fashion Week collection since 2019. In a statement to The Associated Press describing the woman he designs for Lauren said she “dresses for who she is on a particular day.” Remarking that the collection was “inspired by her individuality — all the ways she can express herself through colour, texture, contradictions.” As each model flowed in their vibrant ensembles from flowing blouses to blue denim, there was a sense of freedom and liberation in the air.
3. Grace Ling’s Anthropomorphic Collection
Grace Ling from Singapore is a designer worth watching. Grace Ling’s metal-meets human runway collection made headlines. The collection had a late 90s/early 2000s feel to it, whether you look at the sheer gradient dresses and the paneled chromium bodice. Some critics have compared the looks of the collection with the early Alexander McQueen works. Ling has successfully balanced sensuality while examining the way fabric and metal draped on the human body. This was an eerie dystopian show that was a breath fresher.
Grace Ling Spring/Summer 2024 Photo: Kendam
Read more about the Fashion Evolution(s), 2023
4. Sarah Burton Leaves Alexander McQueen
Alongside the headliners at New York Fashion Week’s showcase, news broke of Sarah Burton’s exit from Alexander McQueen. Burton’s departure McQueen comes after an over two-decade long tenure, 13 years of which was as creative director, filling in the role after the late Lee Alexander McQueen who passed away in 2010. Sarah Burton’s tenure was mostly positive. One of the most notable moments in her career, and perhaps her biggest success, was when she designed Kate Middleton’s wedding dress for her 2011 marriage ceremony with Prince William, Prince of Wales. While Burton received mostly positive reviews, she was at times compared to her predecessor Alexander McQueen who’s runway collections were audacious, daring, avant-garde and often otherworldly. While Burton in comparison successfully maintained the McQueen DNA, her design approach merged her demure take and penchant for florals with McQueen’s dark, almost gothic themes.
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