Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 collection shows continue to inspire bold moves in the fashion industry. On the runway, Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from the body presenting the Valentino collection in “a natural state, rather than a means of provocation”. At Balenciaga, Demna highlighted the Maison’s signature tailoring exaggerated silhouettes focusing on craft over convoluted theatrics. Off the runway Alexander McQueen appoints Seán McGirr, succeeding Sarah Burton as head of ready-to-wear of the fashion house while Chemena Kamali replaces Gabriela Hearst as Chloe’s new Creative Director.
Chanel
Virginie Viard paid homage to Gabrielle Chanel in an incredibly modern way. The collection saw a nod to the 1920s with black lamé wide-legged pajama suit and Art Deco-style prints. Described by Virginie as “a kaleidoscope of vitality” the clothes evoked the artistic spirit of the villa Noailles in the south of France. Graphic tweeds and floral embroideries contrasted with laid-back sophisticated silhouettes in a showcase of “nonchalant elegance”.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga’s previous Autumn/Winter 2023 collection saw creative director Demna take a step back from theatrical runways (Spring/Summer 2023’s muddy runway for instance) and a celebrity-laden front row focusing more on the clothes and craftsmanship. Demna may have found a balance between the theatrical runways and the front row of celebrities for Spring/Summer 204. The clothes were elegant yet dynamic, retro yet modern. The collection was inspired by real people, or rather, people that Demna had met in his life. It still included Balenciaga’s details, such as exaggerated shoulders, voluminous bomber jackets, body-hugging Vinyl, and immaculate florals and sequins gowns. Demna’s collections are known for their severity. While they can be controversial, Balenciaga’s eye for quality and style is not to be overlooked.
Valentino
Taking inspiration from classical nude sculptures of women, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino collection was a commentary on feminism and the liberartion of women and the automony they have over their own bodies. “I wanted to use embroidery not as decoration, but as structure that becomes a fabric in itself,” Piccioli said. “I think this is the most exposed collection I’ve done; it shows skin, but in a different way”. Skin-baring looks and bold displays of defiance with faded Canadian tuxedos and exposed dresses were audacious for all the right reasons.
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was also the last swan song for former creative director Sarah Burton who will be leaving Alexander McQueen after a 26-year-long run. Naomi Campbell, a teary Naomi Campbell, strutted in a glistening silver dress with structured corsets and fringe skirt. Guests applauded. The collection was a celebration of the female body with a multitude of textiles, cross-laced sticthing and of course, Burton’s signature floral motifs. Throughout her reign as creative director of Alexander McQueen, Burton was at times compared to her predecessor and her more “gentle” take to Lee MCQueen’s penchant for danger. Perhaps with that in mind, it was recently annouced that London-based menswear designer Seán McGirr will take over the helm at McQueen.
Chloe
Gabriela Hearst’s final collection for Chloé was a heart-felt one. Her last collection at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 saw what some described as a “full-circle moment”. The collection included three-piece suits with embellished collars, sequinned buckles for belts, and gold collar trims. A black trench, embellished with silver, was layered over a flowing, white dress, and styled in leather boots. Color arrived via marigold gowns.
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