LUXUO goes beyond colour, cut and silhouette to explore the cultural references which add value to the collections at Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2020. The artistry of the collection can be used to purchase key pieces for your wardrobe as well as what you will wear to your next meeting in a boardroom, or to a country retreat. From the ironic to the iconic, which brands are keeping faithful to their Maison’s DNA and which are shifting toward a new direction.
Gucci
Gucci’s collection was a focus on classic accessories and luxe outerwear. It was the perfect combination of craftsmanship, construction, and technique that resulted in coats hanging perfectly off the body. Each piece of outerwear from bombers and peacoats to leather jackets utilised embroidery or had a hidden detail only known to the wearer — like a covered placket, and hidden buttoning on the back. When it came to accessories, the new GG Milano top-handle bag and the Bamboo bucket bag are arguably the collection’s two most coveted pieces. This season, equestrianism was a recurring theme. Maybe in preparation for the Olympics this year, or just a longer version of the metal Horsebit loafer. The equestrian-style boots are not new to Gucci, with former creative director Alessandro Michele mixing riding influences with a subversive “kinky” twist. Sabato De Sarno, the creative director of Gucci, may have drawn inspiration from their House archives, but he is taking them in a new direction.
Fendi
Kim Jones focuses on clothes that are comfortable, not extravagant. The collection featured practical, playful, and versatile pieces which were an extension of their wearer. While Kim Jones is typically referential albeit romantically so, there was a feminine sensibility to the tailoring while the collection’s use of knitwear channeled traditional British nonchalance. The collection is aimed at women who are sophisticated and elegant. Leather riding boot dominated the collection. They were the practical counterpart for this stylish urban woman, who was no stranger to British countryside.
Bottega Veneta
This season saw Bottega put an emphasis on pragmatic pieces for the “woman on the go” which was reflected in transitional pieces that took the wearer from day to night. There was a nod to a multi-generational wardrobe particularly with the accessories that had a sense of inheritance to them — a grandmother’s croco, a mother’s clutch, a father’s Oxfords. This added to the “non-disposability” of the collection that is on-brand for Bottega. Creative director Matthieu Blazy returned to Bottega Veneta’s roots pre-Intrecciato weaving, opting instead for abstract flower prints, cascading handkerchief hemmed skirts, and leather-painted flame patterns that abstractly mimicked the look of flames.
Moschino
Davide Rene, the successor to Jeremy Scott who had been the House’s Creative Director for ten years, died just nine days later. Adrian Appiolaza was later appointed in January 2024 and his debut focused on tailoring and craft or “classics to be twisted” as he stated. It was ironic because even though the collection paid homage to the House of Moschino and its founder Franco Moschino, the collection lacked the whimsicality we have come to know and love of both Moschino’s founder and Jeremy Scott. Its commercial appeal made up for the lack of whimsicality, conceptual appeal and allure. While the word “commercial” was once a frowned-upon term in fashion, the wearability of clothes can’t be ignored. The collection was perhaps Appiolaza’s own commentary on elitism and snobbish values. He knew that his debut collection would draw comparisons to his predecessors and so his inclusion of question mark emblems were a response to the “insistent interrogation of meaning at the core of any work bearing his name”. The collection was subversive in its design. It included trenchcoats, foulards, tailored suits, and lingerie draped with pearls.
Prada
Prada’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection was steeped in historical context. Miuccia Prada, Raf Simons and other designers reinterpreted classic wardrobe pieces in a modern way by integrating fashion into different historical periods. “Rather than an intellectual examination, this collection is an emotional reaction, to ideals of beauty that still feel resonant.” Leather jackets took inspiration from 1940s aviation and post-war era voyage practices while Prada also elevated working uniforms and sportswear with the inclusion of varsity jackets. As Prada approached the collection with a historical eye on women throughout the decades, the clothes reflected a sense of “power dressing” or clothes that were meant to protect the wearer be it in the air or on the soccer field.
Emporio Armani
Emporio Armani took inspiration from a “luminous night sky”. The collection began with black outfits before moving on to shades of jade, violet and grey. The clothing matched this “luminous” inspiration with billowing fabric and loose trousers that encouraged movement. This collection was all about the details. A play on texture, metallic embroidery and jacquard pieces with a textured finish that reflected the stars and moon in the night sky. The masculinity of men’s tailoring with crocheted waistcoats and sharp suits juxtaposed the delicate embellishments and rhinestone chains, showcasing the different facets of femininity. There is no one way to approach women’s dress or style. The boundaries between gender and femininity are blurred.
Diesel
It is an open secret that there is a trend of Gen Z’s venturing into Y2K fashion. Diesel’s Fall/Winter collection evoked youthful nostalgia from the early 2000s. With artisanal denim coated and then cracked, matted knits in extreme shapes alongside trompe l’oeil-style prints and layered mesh to give off the impression of clothes that were fraying off the body. The collection tapped into the unhindered freedom of the new millennium, no doubt tugging at the heartstrings of millennials everywhere — ultra mini-skirts, mid-riff bearing tops, patent leather boots, and barely-their blouses. The denim, devoré jersey, and faux fur selections were key pieces for every Gen Z who aims to emulate early-2000s looks.
Max Mara
The Max Mara customer is, as the brand describes a “woman-in-control with a dash of Belle Époque elegance, a hint of demi-mondaine glamour, and a glimpse of sensuality”. Max Mara is known for their modern take on dressing the woman they envision. A wide knitted belt is worn at the waist to accentuate any shape, no matter how tall or small. The oversized signature lightweight “Teddy Bear” coat is the perfect mix of urban glamour. Cashmere cardigans, knitted obi belts, and kimono sleeves are all Japanese-inspired. “Masculine” influences of authoritative officer coats, cabans and power jackets in jet black and smoky greys are a testament to the modern woman’s emancipation.
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