Neutrals make a great team. Neutrals are great. Black will always be the new black, there’s no skin tone that doesn’t look good in grey, and it’s impossible to look under- (or, in fact, over-) dressed in a navy suit.
However, when you consider that dog tags and square-toe shoes were once considered the height of cool, it’s not hard to imagine a day when we all look back and collectively facepalm over living in our lives almost entirely monochrome.
Fortunately, color is making a comeback. “Pastel colours are a big trend at the moment from high end to high street,” says Kenny Ho, a stylist who has dressed the likes of Luke Evans, Aidan Turner and Dominic Cooper.
As with any sartorial switch-up, it’s worth doing your research before plunging in. For some men, pistachio is the perfect shade. But every guy has a different spectrum.
To help you get it right, we’ve laid the groundwork with some simple tips and easy ways to wear pastels that won’t leave you looking like a toddler at an Easter egg hunt.
3 Key Tips For Wearing Pastels
Consider Your Skin Tone
Wearing the wrong shade of rouge can leave you quite literally red-faced, so it’s wise to spend some time studying your reflection before hitting the order button.
You can split the wheel of colour into warm (reds, oranges and yellows) and cold (greens, blues and purples) colours. It’s the same for your skin tone. Your skin will have a cool undertone if the veins are blue on your arms. If they’re more of a greenish colour, consider yourself warm. Once you’ve figured this out, look to the opposite side of the wheel. You should wear this type of clothing.
There are also ‘soft’ and ‘hard’ pastels to consider. Hard pastels are more vibrant and soft pastels more washed-out. If you have fair skin, pastels may wash it out. Stick to brighter shades, such as coral and pistachio. A medium complexion – which usually has a warm, olive tone – can hold its own against softer pastels like mint green or lilac, but also looks good next to some harder shades. Darker skin fares well with pretty much any colour – so feel free to play around with the entire spectrum of pastels.
Loosen Up Your Fits
When worn separately, color and skinny-fits look great. When combined, however, these seemingly innocent factors can make you look like a six-year old girl heading to a party. Wear pastels with looser fitting clothes.
“Tailored blazers, slim-fit chinos and shorts in bright pastels are all good items to experiment with,” says Ho. “Don’t go too oversized, though. Try to maintain a slimmer silhouette, as pastel colours can make you look bigger than you are.”
Check Your Surroundings
You may want to restrict Neapolitan’s use to the brand of suiting you choose, rather than to your color scheme. As with most things, there’s a time and place, so always read the dress code (or the employee handbook) closely.
“Pastel colours can work in some smart settings, especially summer weddings which are usually a little less strict,” says Ho. “For a summer party that requires a little dressing up, try a pastel suit with a white T-shirt and sneakers.”
5 Ways To Wear Pastels
Pastel Tailoring
It takes a bit of bravado to pull off sorbet colored suiting. The cut of your suit should be slim and neat, with summer-weight wools and cotton blends preferable to linen (thirty years on, we still can’t shake the Miami Vice comparisons).
A single-breasted jacket will be the easiest to pull off, but double-breasted styles can also work well if it’s of the modern four-button variety. Keep the trousers cropped at the ankle and wear with loafers or – if the dress code allows – sneakers. When in doubt, save any colour you want for your accessories, as they are less likely than the trousers to draw attention.
Pastel Streetwear
Most modern streetwear has a rough texture and is in sober colors like black, navy, khaki or khaki. But things weren’t always so earnest. The skaters of the ‘80s were much more at home in shades of lilac and tangerine, and had likely never even heard the word greige.
To avoid throwing away your Stussy and having to start from scratch, try adding a bit of colour. Pair a minty-fresh sweatshirt or soft, lemon sneakers with anything.
Tonal Pastels
Ton sur tons (French: pick one color and bloody well stick to it) is a trend that has been around a while. However, the earth tones are usually Yeezy-approved. It’s a riskier move, but it looks easy when you do it right.
Start with the top half of your body and choose a color that matches your skin tone. Then, move down to darker shades in the same colour on your lower half. You needn’t colour-match every piece of clothing you’re wearing, unless you’re intentionally dressing like a paint chart. Layering a contrast shirt or tee underneath a jacket, neutral sneakers or a belt can help break up the look.
Smart-Casual Paints
We’re not here to get into the ball of frustration that is a smart-casual dress code, but rather to let you in on a pretty useful style hack. If you’re struggling to achieve the laid-back-but-formal look, start out smart and change a single item for something with a little more pigment.
Colour instantly reads as more casual, so while little else may have changed – your usual navy blazer for one in powder blue, or your black merino wool jumper for one in summer-appropriate yellow – your look will set a completely different tone.
Preppy Pastels
It is not easy to master preppy, but it gives you a lot of power. It’s easy to update Ivy League style by swapping the traditional collegiate colors for something more subdued. This will make you look modern and at home off campus.
If you want to dress preppy (in pastels or otherwise), it’s best to mix and match one or two key pieces. Wear denim with sneakers and varsity jackets, or pair chinos and a hoodie with an Oxford shirt.
Five Easy Pieces to Wear in Pastel
Sneakers
Sneakers can be worn with a casual outfit and are a great way to add a splash of colour. Choose retro or minimalist shoes over bulky sneakers. They can appear childish when in pastels.
Shirts
Pastel shades, on the other end of the spectrum from neutrals are casual by nature. When it comes to shirts this depends on the cut. Keep your tie in soft shades such as sky blue or pink. More vibrant colors are reserved for Oxford and Cuban collar shirts.
Accessories
If you are starting from a black-only wardrobe, it may be difficult to transition into pastels. A pair of socks or a baseball cap can be an easy entry point, or – if you’re dressing for a formal occasion – a silk tie or pocket square.
Chinos
In the past, chinos came in shades of stone and khaki. Today they come in every color. Although anything is theoretically possible, they look best when cut slim and in shades of pinks, blues, or greens that have been slightly faded.
Sweatshirt
Sweatshirts can be worn anywhere: to the gym or office, but not simultaneously. For the first, choose hard pastels and bold logos. For the second two, go for softer plains.
