Some days – for work, a function or just because you feel like it – you need to dress up. But there’s always that hesitation in having to don dress shoes – so often stiff, uncompromising and hard on your tootsies. This was, at least, the case.
More relaxed dress codes, as well as the introduction of new technologies and ways of making shoes, mean you don’t have to be in pain for your style any more. Today, you can take a stand in shoes that won’t leave you bleeding and blistered, and you’ll still look the part.
Comfortable dress shoes with a sneaker-like feel are available for all budgets.
What is a dress shoe today?
Dress shoes were once rather restricted in their style. For most men, well into the late 20th century, dress shoes meant dark (which really meant black), plain Oxfords – a slim-line lace-up largely free of decoration, with the exception perhaps of some light broguing. Buckles were no longer worn (too fancy). Loafers are out (too casual).
With the change in attitudes towards office attire, smart shoes, or at least the styles that are available, have become more relaxed. Sports shoes or work boots remain out, but now include monk shoes, Chelsea boot and chunkier designs that would be worn to walk the dog.
Zara
“Men dress differently now, even when dressing up. You might wear shoes that contrast with your suit, for example,” says William Church, co-owner of Joseph Cheaney shoes, where sales of black dress shoes have fallen over recent years. “Colours the likes of chestnut and burgundy, or with burnishing – there are many more options. The possible details are almost endless and there’s room for quirkiness.”
Even hybrid models – a dress upper on a trainer or work boot-derived outsole – are possible for semi-formal dressing. If the occasion requires formal attire, then you should respect it. Think shoes, not boots. Lace-ups instead of slip-ons. Dark high-shined leathers. A slimmer silhouette. Low profile soles (rubber or rubber).
Find comfortable dress shoes
Generations that have come up wearing trainers have different – and sometimes unrealistic – expectations as to how comfortable a shoe might be. AirMax is built to be light and easy on the feet, while a new pair Oxfords won’t feel that way.
You can still look for certain things to make sure you get a comfortable, smart shoe.
Select the right style
While an Oxford was traditionally the dress shoe of choice, there are now many styles that can do just as good a job. The nature of an Oxford’s lacing system means there’s ample chance of pinching around the toes and the top of the foot. It’s the same with comfortable loafers. They need to be tight to stay on. Derby shoes are more relaxed, as the vamp is sewn on top of the shoe. This increases flexibility. If you’re on your feet all day, go for the latter.
You Should Do Some Sole-Searching
Greater efforts are being made to build comfort into work shoes: rubber soling (relative to leather soles) reduces impact on the heel, where most downward pressure is felt; some models now use a layer of memory rubber padding under the branded liner to further reduce impact – a step up from the previous material typically used, which tended to compress over time and stay compressed.
Traditional shoemakers will also argue that Goodyear-welted construction, although not modern, remains extremely comfortable – each shoe has a cork bed that moulds itself to your unique foot. Just be ready to break in your shoes.
Check Your Leathers
Softer leathers are available too – though note that these are not as hard-wearing. Unlined suedes and leathers are available and provide superior comfort and flexibility when walking. In some cases there won’t be much of a break-in period at all, which is good news if your pain threshold isn’t up to scratch.
Know Your Shoe Size – And Shape
Yes it’s all well and good knowing your shoe size – although it will vary from brand to brand. Most shoes come in different widths, so if your sides are always pinching you, choose something wider the next time. Church suggests that you should also consider the shape of your feet.
“Certainly one advance of the changes in dress shoes is that men don’t just have to wear that standard slim-line, refined shape of shoe,” he notes. “Men are freer to wear different last shapes and, crucially, to wear the one that best suits their foot shape. Before you decide on a style, choose the last shape that is right for you. It really is essential to comfort.”
Grin and Bear It
A high quality calf leather – of the kind long used in traditional upmarket shoemaking – may initially be stiffer, but best absorbs moisture away from the foot, which can be a key factor in overall comfort (not to mention foot health and the longevity of the shoes). Wear thick socks around the house to break them in before you embark on a long commute.
Crockett & Jones Camden
Comfortable dress shoes: Brands to Look for
Tricks
The Northampton shoemaker, best known for its chunky ‘country’ brogues, also offers a line with what it calls an ultra flex sole – still leather on the insole and sole but some 30 percent lighter than comparative models. Rufus is a suede monk-strap shoe available in brown or navy. It’s the dressier style.
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Mr. P
Mr. Porter is an online retailer that offers many styles. However, its own brand shoes are more on the semi-smart side, with features like rubber commando soles, suede uppers which are flexible, or on the Lucien desert boots, soft, half lined uppers and crepe soles.
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Mephisto
The problem with shoe brands that put comfort first is that the results are often pretty ugly – they’re all tech and no style. But that’s not always the case. Comfort footwear specialists Mephisto, for example, packs a lot into a plain, simple, suit-friendly package: its Marlon model, for example, comes with an air cushioned sole and the brand’s proprietary Air Jet system, which allows air to flow through the shoe with each step.
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Clarks
With its long history of making children’s shoes, with fit and comfort inevitably to the fore, Clarks has translated this ethos into its shoes for the grown-ups. Even conservative black toe-cap styles get a comfort overhaul, with a lightweight EVA sole unit and Clarks’ “anatomically targeted dual density” Cushion Soft technology, which cuts down strain felt on the ball of the foot.
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Joseph Cheaney
The traditional English shoemaker Cheaney emphasizes comfort with a Goodyear-welted construction. It also offers a variety of dress styles that feature rugged commando-style outsoles. In its Bertie style it even offers what might be called a dress sandal – a smart T-bar bucking shoe with aerating cut-outs along the upper.
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Dr. Martens
Airwair’s sole may have revolutionized comfort in the 1950s but Dr. Martens was once known for its more clumsy shoe styles that were popular with policemen and postal workers. But don’t rule it out for dress shoes in brown or black. It’s about selecting a style free of the signature yellow stitching – the likes of the Adrian Arcadia fringe loafer or cherry red Arcadia brogue.
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Feit
Goodyear welted shoes are comfortable, but they don’t have to be classic. New York-based brand Feit, for example, takes a familiar build and shape, but puts a contemporary spin on the details – its black Braided Oxford model, for instance, is a whole-cut made with a one-piece veg-tanned leather upper, with an ornamental tassel at the heel.
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Grenson
Grenson is known for its strong takes on traditional shoe designs, which often feature lightweight wedge soles with cushioning. It also pushes the boundaries of acceptable dress shoes with its hybrid trainers, such as its Sneaker 3 which has a brogue leather upper and a sneaker-sole unit.
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Crockett & Jones
Although another Goodyear-welted shoe manufacturer, Crockett & Jones reflects the growing demand for comfort across a number of styles, from those with highly flexible crepe soles to rugged yet smart suede boots with Dainite rubber soles. If you want a shoe that feels like a slipper, try the Genoa penny loafer driving footwear with a rubber-soled.
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Cole Haan
The classic US brand Cole Haan is known for its comfortable dress shoes. A standard brogue on the outside, such a style might, for example, on the inside have an anatomical footbed and heel – which adjusts weight distribution – flexible outsole and moisture-wicking textile lining. Why sacrifice your style for comfort?
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