Unlike most other brands, Hermès always does things a little differently. While it’s become common practice for brands to furnish fashion editors and journalists with a list of celebrities who will be attending their shows (we’ve sadly all become glorified paparazzis), Hermès does nothing of the sort. In fact, I attempted to press the Hermès Singapore team multiple times so that I can be prepared for who to look out for before the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear show for soundbites and general content, but they maintained that they themselves had no clue.
They were there. A sizeable number of celebrities—both established and up-and-coming—entered the Palais d’Iena to a runway show audience that was mingling with pre-show drinks in hand. James Marsden was wearing a suit with a white turtleneck. And from the corner of my eye, in an outfit from Hermès’ Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection, was Swedish singer-actor Omar Rudberg of Young Royals—he paired the look expertly with a statement Hermès necklace You can also find out more about the following: a bag with matching hardware. Queer Eye‘s Antoni Porowski rocked up in a shearling jacket with leather details, young Danish actors Alex Høgh Andersen and Lucas Lynggaard Tønnesen (known for Vikings and 1899 Arrived together The White Lotus‘ Leo Woodall was there too, and so was Luka Sabbat. I’m sure I’ve missed out a number of other celebrities but Hermès was very low-key about it.
The younger famous faces at the front row perhaps seemed like a calculated move. Does a venerable brand like Hermès need the awareness of a younger generation? Every brand, it could be argued, should. Yet, the very spirit of the House is one that’s irreverently playful and artistic director Véronique Nichanian has always channeled that into every collection. If anything, the appearance of these young faces could further help communicate the true nature of Hermès, one that’s even more apparent in its Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection.
The Fit: Right off the bat, it felt like as though the Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection was inspired by a rather British sensibility with the use of Prince of Wales checks and argyle knits. Styles from the punk inspired Autumn/Winter menswear 2023 collection were evident in the styling. The collection’s main theme was versatility and paradox. The collection combines traditional menswear fabrics with non-traditional ones, classic motifs are reinterpreted in a modern way, and the overall theme is versatility.
This was clearly visible in the trousers. Tops were oversized, but the trousers were slimmer. Jackets (a number of them reversible) were slightly cropped, but not too much—just enough to be a modern update. Waterproof gum canvas was cut into layers and styled in a variety of ways. This season, layering was the focus. Sleeveless elements were worn alone or layered with lighter fabrics.
The calfskin ensembles were my favorite. I initially thought that they were ponyhair pieces owed to the incredible sheen, but at the collection’s re-see the very next day, it was revealed that they were polished calfskin. Fashioned into a number of outerwear, suiting and even a stunning vest, they were beautiful examples of Hermès craftsmanship and that spirit of playfulness.
Details: Nichanian has a knack for styling every facet from the Hermès menswear universe into one cohesive look without ever making it feel too much. Jewellery designs for Autumn/Winter 2019 were both simple and effective. A personal favourite were the pebble-shaped necklaces in palladium and wrapped with a bit of leather for a chic statement that doesn’t shout. Silk scarves became snoods that had a leather reversible side. And ties were reminiscent of the Prince of Wales suiting, but with fine topstitching.
But of course, the bags were what I’m certain everyone had their eyes on. I adored the Hermès Équipier pouches that were designed to fit comfortably on bicycle bars and fitted with multiple zipped compartments. The Fouree-Tout Étrivère—essentially an oversized holdall—was crafted with a sturdy top panel where its top handle is attached to while the bottom half is made of more supple leather that gave it a beautiful shape when carried using its shoulder strap. And the classic Haut à Courroies was given an appliqué treatment with leathers of different finishes for a more rugged appeal.
Three extraordinary looks Look 11’s play on layers that’s especially visible thanks to the gum canvas turtleneck; Look 34’s simple monochromatic ensemble of a leather jacket with slim-cut trousers; and the closing look that should be worn to an awards show pretty soon.
Takeaway: You don’t need to design wide-cut trousers to be relevant and cool; a contemporary aesthetic is more than just about being trendy.
View the full Hermès Autumn/Winter 2024 menswear collection in the gallery below.
The original version of this article appeared in Esquire.sg.
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