Harvey Specter. For those in the know, it’s a name that conjures up a knowing nod of agreement among men and women alike: goddamn, that guy looks good in a suit.
If you’ve seen any of the high-stakes legal drama, Suits, (the clue is in the title; and yes, it’s the one that starred the Royal Family’s newest member), you’ll be familiar with the lead character’s oft-referenced, efficacious persona and swaggering good looks. Harvey Specter is the James Bond of the small-screen courtroom. He’s Don Draper for the Netflix era, and his witty one-liners are Instagram catnip for Monday morning motivational memes. “Sorry I can’t hear you over the sound of how awesome I am”.
When Harvey Specter walks into a room, he exudes authority and people listen; he wears the best suits because his suits are his uniform – his superhero cape, if you will – and are all a reminder of what exceptional, well-fitted tailoring can do for a man.
Uniforms are attractive. We all know this. ‘All the nice girls love a sailor’, as the old military singalong goes, and just ask a marine. They’ll vouch for the reputation. A uniform can also convey a sense heroism, power and dedication to a greater cause.
Harvey Specter and all of us who live in the city are closest to a perfect suit. The armour of any man who is going to battle at 9am would be a suit that has been tailored with military precision, and worn as if it were a uniform.
It’s this uniform approach that dictates many of the style cues of Harvey Specter’s suits. There’s a distinct lack of fuss, colour or accessories in his tailoring, reflective of his no-nonsense approach to business. He has established what works for him – a cut as sharp as his tongue, and he keeps variety to a minimum, saving surprises for his unsuspecting business adversaries. And no, Harvey Specter doesn’t do business-casual. “People respond to how we’re dressed, so like it or not this is what you have to do.”
Harvey Specter’s Dresses
The Suits
Harvey Specter is known for his classic business suits, a two piece with side vents, polished details, such as peak lapels or flapped pockets, and a sharp, close cut. His shoulders are also usually ‘roped’, meaning there’s a strong overall shape and magnificent roll of firmness in the fabric at the sleeve head, creating a powerful but contemporary silhouette, perfect for his disarming persona.
To emulate the character off-screen, buy a suit that avoids exaggerating these proportions. That’s key if you want to keep it contemporary and dodge the city-slicker power-suit vibes, made famous by the 1980s Wall Street lot. The Harvey Specter way of dressing is very much in contrast to the now-dated look of extremely-wide lapels, heavy pinstripes, braces, cutaway collars and statement socks. The look may still be prevalent in some parts of New York City or London, but (thankfully) it’s becoming less common.
As for brands, Harvey Specter’s style is very much in line with that of Ralph Lauren (particularly the American giant’s Purple Label line) and early Tom Ford suits – which the character was known to wear in the show. His sunglasses too, are always simple, understated and by Tom Ford.
It’s important to compare his suit details with those of his whip-smart, young protégé, Mike Ross. A softer overall shape, notch lapels, relaxed shoulders, flatter fabrics, and a cut that’s not quite as form-fitting are all key signifiers of the quiet hierarchy and subtle differences these suits support.
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Accessories
Tailoring is easily over-accessorised, so it’s refreshing to see Harvey Specter adopt, at most, a clean, elegantly folded white pocket square on the odd occasion.
He prefers dark, high-twist wools, or wool blends, with a hint of silk to add a little extra luxury. If there’s any pattern at all its shark-skin or a fine wider rope stripe – there’s no sign of window-pane or country tweeds here. His monochrome, mostly plain ensembles are reminiscent of a classic boardroom look. This ensures that his formality and uniformity remain intact.
If he opts for blue, it’s an elegant navy, not a brash cobalt hue. His default shirt choice is white, with a classic collar just long and wide enough to suit his face shape, as well as barrel or subtle French cuffs with simple cufflinks. He’s also often seen in one of the all-time great tailoring combinations – that is the Cary Grant shark-grey suit with white shirt and black tie.
Don’t let anyone say that it is boring or too safe. This is a look that only a confident man can pull off.
But if there’s one critique of Harvey Specter’s look, it’s his tie choice: too much satin and a full Windsor knot, both of which date his look. The full Windsor shape is generally too large for most people’s collar and head size, and can cheapen the look of a tie – just ask Premier League footballers. Of course, you can see why the costume department opted for this tie knot on Specter as it serves to highlight his position as the top dog within the company. However, in the modern day, opt for a fabric with no sheen, save the silks for weddings – just your own, in fact – and a four-in-hand knot replete with a dimple is preferable.
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Harvey Specter’s Best looks
Three-Piece Outfit
Harvey Specter will always look great in a three piece. The secret to Harvey Specter’s success is his philosophy of wearing simple outfits that are understated. He avoids overstyling, colour or fuss.
A prime example of this comes in the form of a tonal combination of all-navy with a white shirt, and subtle lapel detail on the waistcoat – with the bottom button undone, of course. When he takes off his jacket and unties the tie, it still looks perfect.
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Evening Wear
There have been some scenes where the Suits Black tie is the new standard for boys. Harvey Specter has always been the model of flawless evening style. He could have used a cuff to cover the white of his shirt, but his look was more modern without one.
The diamond-point bow tie is a brilliant alternative detail, which he pairs perfectly with a classic buttoned dress shirt and signature silk peak lapels – a timeless, winning combination.
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Winter Harvey
During the colder months, Harvey Specter’s layers are an extension of the great fitting suit he wears underneath. For chilly New York mornings, Harvey Specter usually wears a cashmere or wool winter coat with peak lapels or notches in dark navy, gray or black.
There’s a hint of styling in the form of a simple scarf worn loose or draped to follow the line of the lapel gorge, which sums up what Harvey Specter does best – keeping it classic but supremely cool.
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