Josef Bonello has just been appointed by the Malta Tourist Authority as the first ambassador for one of the world’s smallest wine-producing nations.
The oldest Maltese vineyard. DelicataFounded by a GP, in 1907, and now in its 4th generation, the winery is located on the waterfront in Valetta Harbour. It produces seven brands of wines and thirty different individual wines, all made with grapes grown locally, but in smaller quantities than first growth Bordeaux.
Some of the best wines include Victoria Heights Shiraz Rose and Grand Cavalier Merlot, as well as Girgentina Frizzante. Says Delicata’s Georges Meekers, author of “Wines of Malta”: “NGirgentina can be a pleasant surprise for many ovices. Malta’s prominent white wine grape could not be more different. Girgentina’s complex appeal is enhanced by the subtle citrus scents of lemon blossom, along with green Granny Smith apple flavors and crisp Bambinella pear.
“Medina Gellewza is garnet in color and vinified in stainless steel tanks. The aroma is fresh and reminds me of boiled sweets and violets. There’s an intriguing little streak of black treacle in the finish. Served slightly chilled it makes a wonderful red to enjoy in the spring and summer”.
“Vermentino is variously called Pigato, Favorita, Rolle, and Malvoisie de Corse. We use it in ourgrown Medina Vermentino Zibibbo cuvée and Pjazza Reġina The area planted with Viognier amounts to a surface area of barely eight football fields, or less than seven hectares. I recommend Malta’s award-winning winemaker Matthew Delicata’s top-of-the-line Grand Vin de Hauteville label.”
Wines were sold by the pinta or terz. One half penny was charged for a single pint. The bottling of wine in Malta only began after World War II, before that wine was sold ‘loose’ or in bulk. in the mid-1950s Lachryma Vitis, Malta’s oldest wine brand. The majority of plantings took place in the 90s.
It is possible to trace the history of wine production on the Maltese Islands back to Phoenician/Punic times, before Rome dominated the Mediterranean. Gozo’s climate is more temperate than Malta because it is more exposed to the cool winds of the north-west and west. This is a great advantage for red wine, in particular. Gozo’s soil is loamy. The time needed to age in oak barrels is not always years, but can be several months. The Ta’ Mena winery, owned by the Spiteri family produces 150,000 bottles of wine every year.
On Malta, the Meridiana Wine Estate was established in 1987 under oenologist Roger Aquilina who was tasked to produce “World-Class Wines of Maltese Character”. The name Meridiana and the estate’s sundial insignia are inspired by Malta’s Southern European location. Their wines can be purchased in the UK Through Lin-Beet.
In 1989, a 19-hectare (47-acre) site was acquired at Ta’ Qali, reclaimed from a Second World War airfield below the ancient, walled city of Mdina. In 1992 Marchese Antinori began investing in the vineyards. Antinori descends one of the oldest winemaking families around the world. Giovanni di Piero Antinori became a member of the Winemakers Guild of Florence, in 1385. The Estate was planted in 1994 and 1995 with Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. The current portfolio includes ten labels – four whites, a rose, and five reds.
Martino Amadeo is the winemaker. Says estate manager Karl Chetcuti; “I would recommend Astarte (Vermentino), Isis, (Chardonnay), and Nexus (our Merlot) as our whites. Vermentino comes from vineyards located near the sea which gives it a nice salty taste. Isis, on the other hand, is a Chardonnay made in estates and is 100% unoaked. Our red wines are only aged in barrique. We always prefer elegance over power.”
The vineyard was planted between 1994 and 95 with Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, and Syrahs. A charming winery built of pale, local limestone was constructed in 1996.
Says Bonello: “Gozo Island is the largest island in Malta. Ta’ Mena Estate is a hidden gem, offering not just wine experiences but also a glimpse into the local food culture with Gozitan platter featuring local specialties like sweet sundried tomato paste, olives, peppered cheeselets, smoked sausages, and seasonal delicacies.
Established over a century ago by Chevalier Anthony Cassar, Marsovin Winery is managed by the founder’s great-grandson, CEO Jeremy Cassar. The wine cellars are from the Order of the Knights of Saint John.
He comments: “An excellent wine to accompany a traditional Maltese rabbit dish would be the 1919 Gellewza which is made using the indigenous Maltese grape Gellewza, and Merlot. This complex, full-bodied wine has intense fruit aromas, including forest berries, cherries and figs, with distinct notes peppery, sweet spices and a hint tobacco. On the palate, it is very smooth with plenty of ripe, velvety tannins and a very pleasant, long lingering finish.”
Ta’ Betta Wine Estates in Siġġiewi, was established by Cambridge University graduates, Juanito and Astrid Camilleri who have been guided by winemaker Vincenzo Melia. Try the Jean Parisot Chardonnay. The blend Philippe Villiers is one of many wines inspired by Knight Grandmasters of St. John. Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Antonio Manoel blend.”