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    Formal Attire for Men – Dress Code Style Guide 2023

    We’ve waxed lyrical about how men’s dress codes are breaking down, how casual dress is taking over and why sportswear is the de facto king of men’s fashion. The suit is a mainstay in the new, relaxed world.
    We’ve seen it rise and fall in popularity over the years, but it never truly went away. The first Louis Vuitton Collection from Virgil Abloh featured a lot of tailoring, along with cutting-edge streetwear, proving that the two are now symbiotic. The suit and old ideas about Dress code in general, no longer has to have stuffy connotations – it can be worn through choice; it can be sexy and relevant.

    After all, no matter how casual fashion gets, there are still times when you’ll need to wear one – weddings, fancy parties, big job interviews, they generally all require one. “Many people now only wear formal clothing to weddings and funerals”, owner of Grenson , Tim Little admits. How can you wear it without looking like an old man?

    What is formal attire?

    The question of formal dress is a confusing one.

    In general, if you find yourself staring at an invitation that requests formal attire, it’s a safe bet that it’s a black or white tie event, where you’re expected to show out in your best and most polished dress. As a rule of thumb, if an event calls for formal attire, it’s going to be fancy, and you don’t want to stick out as a slob in a crowd of well dressed men.

    Traditionally, men’s formal attire indicates a black tie event, which means a black tuxedo and a tuxedo shirt, and there’s very little wiggle room around it. The black tie style is the pinnacle of formal men’s wear. It looks best with a white starched shirt and cummerbund.

    If it’s specifically indicated that white tie is required, you’ll have to add a bow tie and tailed jacket into the mix.

    Some business environments will also require formal attire, but we’re not saying to go wearing your tux to the office any time soon. Business formal work wear is a suit with a dress shirt that has been freshly ironed or pressed. Paired with leather dress shoes and you’ll look as if you’ve stepped out of Mad Men’s Sterling Cooper.

    Formal attire is a little different today. The lines are increasingly blurred and it’s easier to get away with a dressed-down version of formal attire, so long as the look is polished and sleek.

    Keep reading to learn the new rules of men’s formal attire and how to make sure you’re always dressed for the occasion.

    Sportswear and Formal Attire

    It was not long ago that the equation for formal attire was very simple: suit with shirt, tie and pocket square. Smart shoes were also included. Whilst it ticks all the formal boxes, this is a look that’s far from inventive and has been knocking around for decades in various forms. It’s no wonder only one in ten people in the UK now wear a suit to work – it’s become boring, and stinks of conformity and boardroom meetings.

    SandroSandro

    It’s a good job then designers are beginning to herald in a new era for the old faithful. Forget everything you know about suits – this is tailoring for the next generation, it’s tailoring for those who may never have chosen or even needed to wear a suit before. It’s got nothing to do with Savile Row. It kicked off with the spring-summer shows of 2018 – there was Louis Vuitton’s all-white double-breasteds; Dior’s couture-inspired suits worn with nothing underneath; Paul Smith’s voluminous 1980s takes, and Raf Simons’ oversized designs with no shirt or tie in sight.

    COSCOS

    What does this mean to me and you? The time of formal wear is over. The suit doesn’t have to be treated like the business accomplice it always has been. Creative director of Savile Row house Gieves & Hawkes John Harrison agrees: “There is definitely an easing up on tailoring”. Yes, there are times when a shirt and tie are needed – those pesky weddings – but you can also replace the shirt altogether, and still be the best-dressed man in the room. The new rules for formal attire include everything from wearing tailored trainers to the right fit of your suit.

    Formal vs Semi-formal wear

    Despite the fact that times are changing when it comes to men’s formal attire, there’s still a line drawn between formal wear and semi-formal wear.

    Semi-formal attire for men can be anything from a lighter colored suit to a tuxedo. You can try a lighter suit or blazer with slacks and a sharp belt. Semi-formal wear can include a tie, but doesn’t always have to, and shoes can be smart or relaxed.

    Men have greater versatility when it comes to semi-formal attire. You’ll rarely walk into a semi-formal event, look around and feel like everyone’s wearing the same thing. You can experiment with patterns, colors and accessories as long as you keep the main formal staples, like a dress shirt and jacket, in mind.

    If you’re a man, dress up. Daytime events allow for different color suits. Nothing’s more classy than a man in a tux.

    For men, the difference between formal and formal-like dress codes is that formal wear tends to be more traditional.

    The New Rules Of Men’s Formal Dress

    Can we expect the modern man to dress the same as his grandfathers? While dress codes are still in place, they are slightly different.

    Keep these eight new rules of men’s formal attire in mind while gearing up for your next event.

    Simplicify Your Look

    Too many people go overboard when it comes to tailoring. No, you don’t have to wear a tie, a collar bar, a pocket square, braces or a pocketwatch in every pocket. Pare things back and let the suit – and your personality – do the talking. Not only will it take less time for you to get ready, you’ll also look less affected and more natural.
    To create a simple wedding outfit, you can ditch the pocket-square (fussy and unnecessary) in favor of a plain knitted necktie with an Oxford shirt. Simple and effective.

    TopmanTopman

    Forget ‘Slim Fit’

    ‘Slim fit’ has dominated mainstream clothing over the past decade, but it’s on its way out, especially when it comes to formal dress code. Unfortunately ‘slim fit’ tends to translate as ‘too tight’ and nobody wants a suit they can’t move in, or even do up. Look for wide cuts that compliment your body shape, rather than contouring it.

    Brunello CucinelliBrunello Cucinelli

    Aim For Comfort

    A suit doesn’t have to have heavy structure. Whilst those of Savile Row tend to have a militaristic cut – built up roped shoulders, heaving chest canvassing – an unstructured suit strips all of this away, offering a far more comfortable end product that won’t make you feel like you need to stand to attention when you wear it.

    For ultimate comfort, wear oversized outerwear. It doesn’t have to be huge, but a coat in the next size up will ensure your suit fits underneath, and it can double as a cosy weekend jacket. You can tailor your sleeve to allow you to see your hands.

    CanaliCanali

    If You Want Colour, Go Earthy

    A colourful suit is a good option. Navy and gray will always be popular choices, but it can also make a statement. If you are unsure, opt for earthy shades of browns and deep greens. These colours will flatter the majority of skin tones. Keep your outfit simple and let the suit take centre stage.

    NextNext

    Try Trainers

    Ah, that age-old question of whether you can wear trainers with a suit. We’ll end it here: yes, it can be done. It’s very easy to get wrong though. The trick is to tone everything down – the suit should be unstructured and made from a more casual fabric such as cotton; wear a T-shirt instead of a shirt, and tailor the hems of your trousers with no break. Oh, and also, the sneakers themselves need to be minimalist.

    DigelDigel

    Rule #6: Forget Old School ‘Rules’ Men’s Of Formal Wear

    Unfortunately, the traditional origins of tailoring means it comes with plenty of pomp, and a few so-called style ‘rules’ that are dated and need to be ignored. ‘No brown in town’ and ‘never wear navy and black’ are the two that first spring to mind.

     

    Another, and one you’ll read on plenty of styles sites, is that you should never wear a pre-tied bow tie. What purpose does this serve other than to stroke the wearer’s ego that he, in fact, is wearing a ‘real’ bow tie? Well, there isn’t one really. If you’re after a bow tie then, regardless of whether it’s pre-tied or not, go for it. It shouldn’t be untied on the night anyway – you’re not James Bond.

    Charles TyrwhittCharles Tyrwhitt

    Smart Knitwear

    It is the easiest and most effective rule to follow. Simply swap your shirt for a fine gauge knit – whether that be a crew neck, roll neck or Breton stripe. This immediately helps to strip away the business-like connotations of the suit, and gives off a contemporary look and feel that simply can’t be achieved with a shirt and tie.

    H&MH&M

    When Buying Shoes, Consider Versatility

    What’s the use in having multiple pairs of similar shoes that serve different purposes when you can have one pair that does it all? Shop for smarter footwear that is versatile and save your money. A pair of Derby shoes is always a good option, but look for something a little more robust that’ll pair well with jeans as well as tailoring.
    Alternatively try a traditionally formal style – a monk strap or Chelsea boot – but with a chunky commando rubber sole bolted on for ultimate smart casual prowess.

    Crockett & JonesCrockett & Jones

    Modern Formal Clothing Shopping List

    If your dress clothes are in need of a serious update, here are the must-have pieces any modern man needs for men’s formal wear. Rather than fumbling around in your closet the next time an invitation arrives, have these go-to pieces ready to rumble and you’ll look like the sharpest man in the room.

    The Unstructured Suit

    If you’re going to own only one suit, opt for one with little to no structure and you’ll find yourself wearing it even when you don’t have to. It’ll be comfortable, easy to wear and you can dress it up or down with ease. Wear it with a knitted tie and shirt for work or a Tshirt and trainers on date night.

    The Best Unstructured Suits For Men

    J. Crew Ludlow Slim-fit unstructured suit in Irish cotton-linen blend - click to buy Bonobos Unconstructed Italian Wool Blazer - click to buy Sunspel Linen Unstructured Blazer - click to buy COS Unstructured Single-Breasted Linen Blazer - click to buy

    A Textured Blazer

    A blazer worn over complementary trousers can be a good option when a suit seems too much. Said blazer should be made from some sort of textured fabric – a herringbone cotton or tweed perhaps – so that it looks as though it was meant to be worn solo.

    The Best Textured Blazers For Men

    Land's End Comfort First Corduroy Blazer - click to buy Boss Slim-Fit Jacket in Herringbone Cotton and Virgin Wool - click to buy Hawes & Curtis Grey & Orange Herringbone Plaid Harris Tweed Blazer - click to buy Reiss Ace Single Breasted Velvet Blazer - click to buy

    A Knitted Tie

    The knitted tie may be less formal, but it is less stiff and easier to wear. The knitted tie is usually finished with square tips, but you may find some with pointed ends that mimic the look of the printed silk versions.

    The Best Knitted Ties For Men

    OTAA Essaouira Navy Knitted Tie - click to buy The Tie Bar Textured Stripe Knit Champagne Tie - click to buy J. Crew Silk knit tie - click to buy Brunello Cucinelli textured wool tie - click to buy

    Jersey Shirt

    The fabric choices available for menswear today have also evolved. It’s now possible to purchase classic types of shirt in cotton jersey – the comfortable fibre usually reserved for polo shirts. These jersey shirts look like a dress shirt but have more comfort and freedom of movement. The perfect combination

    The Best Jersey Shirts For Men

    MR P. Organic Cotton-Jersey Shirt - click to buy CANALI Cutaway-Collar Cotton-Jersey Shirt - click to buy POLO RALPH LAUREN Logo-Embroidered Grandad-Collar Cotton-Jersey Shirt - click to buy MISSONI Space-Dyed Cotton-Jersey Shirt - click to buy

    Some Rubber Soled Dress Shoe

    Why settle for leather when rubber is available? More durable, waterproof and slip-resistant, rubber soles make for ideal everyday work shoes yet, because they are usually chunkier, they’ll also pair up equally well with your weekend wardrobe.

    The Best Rubber Soled Dress Shoes For Men

    Grenson Dylan - click to buy Velasca Moletta - click to buy Morjas The Oxford - click to buy Myrqvist Stenhammar - click to buy

    Oversized Outerwear

    Finish your formal look with an oversize coat. It will not only show off your fashion sense and ability to play around with proportions, but it will also make sure your two-piece will fit underneath.

    The Best Oversized Coats For Men

    H&M Oversized Fit Wool-blend Pea Coat - click to buy CELINE HOMME Oversized Double-Breasted Wool Trench Coat - click to buy JIL SANDER Black Oversized Coat - click to buy FEAR OF GOD Eternal Oversized Double-Breasted Melton Wool Coat - click to buy

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