Men’s fashion takes different approaches depending on where you are. In the UK men wear trousers instead of pants. They’re cuffed to show off trainers, not sneakers. We (those in the UK), throw away dirty shoes in the bin instead of the trash.
But there’s one US import gladly welcomed everywhere. These wingtip shoes mens are actually so British that you could even serve them with bacon, beans and beans.
TL;DR
Across the Atlantic, the ‘full brogue’ becomes the ‘wingtip.’ Both denote a shoe that, as our prosaic term doesn’t suggest, features a leather ‘W’ at the toe that echoes a bird seen mid-beat. The tips of your shoe are adorned with a pair of wings. Wingtips. Thank you for your kind words, Hemingway’s land.
We prefer ‘wingtip’ not just for its poetry. It also provides much needed specificity. Men’s footwear styles are awash in interlocking and often contradictory definitions. Broguing is a term that refers to the toe holes, but it’s often used for any shoe with details. Equally, it’s possible to find wingtips without broguing – a smooth toe cap, but still with that swoop of leather toward the heel. These are sometimes called austerity shoes, which is a bit confusing.
It is thankfully easier to wear them. “Although they are a traditional style, wingtips must be the most versatile shoe ever,” says Andrew Loake, head of the eponymous Northampton shoemaker.
Detailing is the devil. Their extra texture makes wingtips a mite more casual than plain lace-ups, so they’re happy sat beneath your dark denim as well as your suit. “We don’t find there’s a specific man that wears wingtips,” adds Loake. “In decades gone by they looked good with Oxford bags and now they’re equally good with skinny jeans.”
There are many different types of wingtip shoes
Modern wingtips look nothing like bog waders. They’re now a wardrobe essential and, as befits any menswear staple, have been twisted into new and occasionally unrecognizable shapes.
Classic Wingtips
Black is the smartest color, followed by browns ranging from light to dark. Colors are more casual. Detailing is also important; less is better. Intricate broguing or unusual leathers are not suitable for smart outfits.
Longwings
The wingtip’s cousin is unique only from the back. “On a classic wingtip, the wing comes along the side of the shoe and dips down into the sole about half way along the shoes,” says Little. “On a longwing, the wing comes along the side of the shoe, all the way to the back.”
The Austerity Brogues
These are plain wingtips without broguing. Since they’re plain, they dress up a touch further, although they’ll still look just as good with jeans.
Wingtip Boots
They are the same as regular wingtips except they extend above the ankle. As with any brogue wingtip boots, they’re more casual so work best with casual trousers or split suits.
Spectator Shoes
These are wingtips in contrasting colors – one shade of leather for the toe cap, another for the rest of the brogue. “Two-tone versions are taken from colonial references,” says Kirkby. Even though they were considered flamboyant in the 1920s. These days they tend to drag the eye from everything else you’re wearing, so should be worn with care.
Wingtips with A Twist
In the last few seasons, classic styles have been resurging as brands such as
Are you looking to buy a pair of Wingtip shoes? Take These Things into Consideration Before Buying a Pair of Wingtip Shoes
When you buy the right pair, they will go with anything. And don’t be shy about opening your wallet; it’s an area of your wardrobe where every pound pays back dividends. If you spend a bit extra you’ll be more comfortable, more stylish and your shoes could last more than a decade. Here are some key features to keep an eye out for.
The Soles
“They should have a Goodyear welting construction,” says Loake. “A traditional style should be made the traditional way.” It also makes your shoes hardier and means you can swap the soles out easily when they get worn, rather than tossing the entire shoe after a year.
The Upper
If they’re not leather, move on. There’s a reason it’s been the material of choice for centuries – it’s hard-wearing but breathable and ages beautifully over time. If you’re after something more casual, try suede, says Kirkby. Check the weather forecast before you go.
The Wingtip
As curved leather is more difficult to stitch than a toe that is straight, you should check the quality of the work. “The balance of the style is critical,” says Kirkby. “Look for the correct spacing from the toe section to the lace section.” Beware styles that look cramped or overly airy.
How to Take Care of Wingtips Shoe
Wingtips are no different. They will pay for themselves in the end. You could pass them on to your children if you treat them well.
Preparing the Soles
Leather soles may be more stylish, but require a little extra care. “Try to wear them in dry conditions on the first few occasions,” says Loake. “The fine grit picked up by dry leather soles assists water resistance.”
Dry them out
You may love your new wingtips, but don’t wear them back-to-back. “Fine leather shoes can require a full day to dry out from natural perspiration,” says Loake. “Try to give them at least 24 hours between wears.” If they don’t dry, the leather can warp, which will cause damage that can’t be reversed. The same’s true if you get caught in a storm. Just keep them away from radiators – rapid drying is the quickest way to wreck your shoes. “Newspapers can be used within the shoe to draw out moisture.”
How to Use a Shoe Horn
Once the backs of your shoes break, they’ll never look as good. Protect them. “Always use a shoe horn when putting them on or taking them off,” says Loake. “This will keep the backs strong and sturdy.”
Clean and Polish
“Wingtips will benefit from a regular application of quality wax polish,” says Loake. “This helps to moisturize the leather, keeping it supple and helping to prevent cracking.” Wipe them clean before smearing on polish and use a toothpick to pick the excess out of the broguing, to stop gunk building up.
The History Of Wingtip Shoes
The wingtip was born from the brogue, which wasn’t always a shoe that one could wear to nice restaurants. “They were originally made from plaited hair and perforated, to allow water to pass in and out,” says Neil Kirkby, from Joseph Cheaney. That feature made life more pleasant for Irish farmers, who spent much of their day tramping through bogs and didn’t fancy taking the water with them. The name is derived from the Gaelic term bróg, which means ‘shoe’, although ‘Brogue’ didn’t enter the lexicon until the 1900s, to denote footwear you’d wear for a muddy ramble.
At first, no decent sort would attempt brogues anywhere else. But, just as brown crept into town and hats slipped off heads, society gradually accepted that having some holes in your shoes wasn’t such a crime, so long as they were deliberate. In the 1920s the Duke of Windsor did more to encourage men to dress in soft tailoring with personality than anyone else. He even wore them on the course.
Shoemakers began experimenting as shoes became more fashionable. “The wingtip is just a toe cap in a curvy shape,” says Tim Little, owner of Grenson. “The origins of the toecap aren’t certain but the assumption is that it was originally reinforcement for the toe, to protect it from excessive wear and tear. At some point, someone made the straight toe cap into a more elegant shape, and it stuck.”
That movement from function to form, coupled with menswear’s general shift more casual, moved the wingtips from weekend to weekday too. “These days they’re obviously quite formal, although they were regarded as more casual than a straight toe cap,” says Little. “A bank manager, for example, wouldn’t wear them before the 1950s.” Nowadays, your bank manager’s probably swapped the suit for selvedge jeans and an unstructured blazer. But he’ll still be wearing wingtips.