The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 3 was revealed in Cannes, France, as the final watch in a year-long celebration for the world’s first true dive watch. The speculation was high, especially after Blancpain released some teasers which were very misleading (a reference about German silver) and did not reveal anything. The watch is indeed a time-only 41.3mm dive instrument that does not make space for a date; the 6 o’clock position is instead occupied by the mil-spec water-resistance mark (denoting if moisture has compromised the case) of the military watches of the 1960s. The watch’s size is widely accepted to be based on the 1953 Fifty Fathoms. However, the exact reference that this watch looks at sparks controversy. Experts point out that the reference is to 1967, while Blancpain only mentions a model from 1964. In reality, however, this new model (which we call Final Fathoms) is a completely unique model. The case is bronze gold and has no twists. There is an upgrade to the movement, but it is not complicated.
Bronze gold, which was introduced by Omega last year to seasoned collectors, is now being used at Blancpain. We feel this is a fair exchange of expertise, given that Blancpain supplies the know-how behind Omega’s groundbreaking Chrono Chime. The Fifty Fathoms Act 3 was designed to have a vintage feel, just like all bronze watches. On the other hand, this is not regular bronze… As a quick recap and update on bronze gold, here is what you need to know: The gold in the alloy makes up 37.5% of the total material, with copper making up the majority (50%). Silver, gallium and palladium make up the rest.
If you plan to wear this limited edition watch (only 555 pieces will be made), then expect some patination, but not on the scale of bronze. Blancpain states that it is suitable for wearing against the skin. However, some reports on social media and rumours from the launch event indicate that there are minor differences between the bronze-gold Omega uses and the one Blancpain uses. Furthermore, it seems the exclusivity of bronze gold will remain with Blancpain for the near term – again this is based on unconfirmed remarks at the launch, by Blancpain representatives. The case material is worth considering, even if it doesn’t pan out. We recommend that all potential owners ask any questions they wish to the Blancpain product experts.
You may wonder, then, why 555? Blancpain points us in the direction of Ariel’s Song from The Tempest (William Shakespeare), where the name Fifty Fathoms emerged in 1953. The line is “Full fathom five thy father lies,” so perhaps 555 is some sort of alliterative tribute… For those who care about such matters, this means that there will be more Act 3 watches out there than Act 1 pieces.
Perezscope is currently causing quite a stir about the Fifty Fathoms, with many people claiming that they are just reviving dead horses to beat them into submission again. This is our opinion on the subject, but it’s important to note that this does not apply to the current Final Fathoms. The design and case material are different. In that regard, we can say the case shape and lugs are both new. Although it’s a round watch in essence, the measurements from lug to lug aren’t available.
The exhibition caseback showcases a new evolution of movement for Blancpain, with the calibre 1154.P2 featuring an escapement with silicon hairspring and a new escape wheel in antimagnetic alloys. The exhibition caseback showcases a new evolution of movement for Blancpain, with the calibre 1154.P2 featuring an escapement with silicon hairspring and a new escape wheel in antimagnetic alloys – Blancpain did not say what exactly this alloy is, but we remain curious as to why the brand does not simply use the Breguet and Omega solution of more silicon-based parts for the balance assembly. The aim was to create an anti-magnetic movement capable of withstanding 1,000 Gauss without a protective soft iron case.
The movement is a class-leader, with a 100-hour power reserve. We will be able to tell you more about it, (and not just blatant lies) when we publish the story of the Final Fathoms, as well as the launch in WOW Singapore & Malaysia (tentatively planned for the annual Legacy Issue later this year). The price of S$44,000 is a disappointment to some and deserves careful consideration. The Final Fathoms will have a large enough market to ensure that its price won’t be an issue. After all, the Final Fathoms represents a significant milestone for Blancpain.
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