In a comeback that watch enthusiasts have been long dreaming of, watchmaker Breitling has announced its acquisition of Universal Genève and in doing so, marking the revival of the Swiss watchmaking Icon. Long known for its renowned horological artistry, innovative in-house movements and mythical models Universal Genève was once hailed as the “couturier of watchmaking”. The quartz crisis, however, marked a significant shift in the company’s trajectory. With Universal Genève acquisition from the Hong Kong based Stelux Group, Breitling aims to restore the storied brand to its former glory, grounding the brand in its Swiss tradition while keeping it poised for contemporary relevance.
According to Joseph Wong, chairman and CEO of Stelux Group, the management at Breitling has demonstrated that it is 100 percent committed to ensuring that Universal Genève lives on, not just in name but in spirit. “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons,” explained Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. Kern also explained that a dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons.
Universal Genève has rich histroy since its founding in 1894 but it was the brand’s technical prowess in the early to mid-20th century that saw Universal Genève rise to prominence. In the 1920s, Universal Genève’s crafted the reversible Cabriolet, a first of its kind. The 1940s saw the brand go from producing elegant women’s cocktail watches and innovative men’s jewelry timepieces to offering an impressive variety of its Compax chronographs with manufacture movements, along with the legendary Tri-Compax full calendar launched to celebrate the brand’s 50th anniversary.
The Microtor, a revolutionary movement that self-winds itself was introduced by the brand in the 1950s. Commissioned from a 23-year-old Gérald Genta, The Polerouter watch was designed to withstand any climate, from the pole to equator. In the 1960s, the brand successfully relaunched its Compax series as sports watches and in 1966, Universal Genève released the world’s flattest automatic movement in its Golden Shadow.
Hodinkee reported that Breitling CEO Georges Kern had invaluable experience in transforming a brand. Since taking over Breitling as CEO in 2017, the company’s sales have soared and it is now one of Switzerland’s 10 biggest brands in terms of revenue. Morgan Stanley reports that in 2022 sales will have reached USD 1 billion. This represents a 40 percent increase year-over-year. With Universal Genève’s rich history in mind, Breitling now has a pivotal role in restoring the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces.
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