Breguet and other Swatch Group companies can always be relied on to deliver a surprise or two to the world. In May, two new Marine references were released. Marine Chronograph 5529 is a small model with a chronograph, while Marine 9518 is purely based on time. We were going to show the Type XX with new bracelets, but Marine’s releases are more in line with the world of high-end watchmaking. We are now back in the world of sports elegance and elevated timepieces. Diamonds are used to elevate the timepiece, and in this case the baguette diamonds. The story is focused on reference 5529 despite the fact that it’s probably more suited to a time-only audience.
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The reason we chose reference 5529 was that, with its size of over 42mm, and Marine’s distinctive lugs, the chronograph is a bit big. It is also a chronograph, and this complication does not exist in the Reine de Naples collection (more about this later), while all Breguet families have a time only option. This chronograph can only be found in the Type XX & Marine collections. It is also powered by the calibre self-winding 582 QA. Breguet Marine is a very credible brand for many collectors because of this calibre. The reference 5529 is not a very strong example of this. This is perfectly acceptable for a watch in this price range.
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This price is due to 98 baguette diamonds (90 set in the bezel of the watch and eight more on the dial). Baguette-cut diamonds are a special feature for those who know what they’re doing. We noted this in our Spring issue and have repeated it many times in the past 10 years. Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca certainly knows what he’s doing, and we believe that reference 5529 is going to be a major entry in the elevated sports elegance watch trend. On the commercial side, ladies who want a Breguet chronograph will have to look to the Marine collection, rather than to the brand’s top-selling range. This is quite encouraging, as the Marine collection has been overshadowed in favour of more popular ranges.
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This does not mean that the reference 9518 was a last-minute decision. The watch, with its 33.8mm case and steel casing, signals Breguet’s desire to expand the Marine collection. Note that the price of the watch is effectively “on application,” which means you will have to assess it for yourself.
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Movement: Automatic calibre 682 QA, with date and chronograph. 48-hour power reserve
Case: Watches in 42.3mm diameter, white or red gold with diamond dial and bezel.
Strap: Rubber or leather
Price: USD 186.400
This article first appeared on WOW’s Summer 2024 issue.
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