This article first appeared in Issue #69 of World of Watches.
We thought the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona was the most impressive watch in the Rolex collection when we saw it at Watches and Wonders Geneva, earlier this year. That effectively means it would be one of the world’s most talked about watches this year. This may seem true, if you just look at our World of Watches Summer issue. To make a long story short, it is not — while The the 60th anniversary of the world’s most important chronograph sees the watch on the podium, the comments sections on the Internet are very keen on two colourful stablemates.
It is not the first time that the Cosmograph Daytona has celebrated its 50th birthday. It was the platinum-plated version of 2013 chronograph that proved to be influential. Remember this when you look at the 2023 model with its unique exhibition caseback. This platinum model is the reference 126506, and it’s a direct reference to the 2013 version, as the exhibition caseback lets us talk about the new calibre. This new calibre has the Rolex-Chronergy escapement as well as some other improvements, including a self-winding feature. However, official specifications remain the same.
First of all, the watch keeps its original features. A date mechanism is not included. This new reference is not without its surprises. We can certainly make use of space, as the watch is larger than the 40mm published dimensions. The new collection is all about space, even the subdials are noticeably thinner. The new model is smaller than the old one, but this fact was not mentioned in the specifications.
The visual and tactile differences will only be apparent to those who have handled and worn the current reference as well as the previous one. You will appreciate the evolution more if, even though you may have your favourite features of this legendary chronograph, you have had the opportunity to experience other versions. It won’t matter if you have never used the Daytona before. Rolex will standardise some aspects of the Daytona. One of these is the shape of its lugs.
Five current models are all consistent with the bezel ring. This ring has the same material used in the case. However, models with precious-metal bezels won’t feature this feature. Where it is deployed, the bezel remains completely in Cerachrom, not as an insert — it has just gotten a frame now, possibly for protective reasons but this is merely speculation on our part.
Rolex provided all photos.
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