Cannes in southern France is known for its film festival and as a little summer playground. It’s not known for its horological prowess, but it’s a lot of fun. Surprisingly, it served as the inspiration for the world’s first dive watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. It’s not the view from shore or the waterfront that is important, but the depths below the surface. In 1950, Jean-Jacques Fiechter assumed the role of Blancpain’s CEO, and he harboured a deep passion for diving. Recreational diving was still in its infancy in those days. SCUBA equipment had only been introduced in 1944 by Jacques-Yves Cousteau.
Jean-Jacques had to learn the hard way how diving could be dangerous and unpredictable. He was 50 meters below the surface and dangerously low on oxygen. Without a watch, he had to make an emergency ascent. He later remarked that “passion makes one forget the time.” Thankfully, Jean-Jacques had another passion – watchmaking. Jean-Jacques set out on a quest to create a dive watch that was reliable, precise and robust.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 3: Debuts of the Bronze Gold version in Cannes
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Act 3 was revealed in Cannes, France, as the final watch in a year-long celebration for the world’s first true dive watch. The speculation was high, especially after Blancpain released some teasers which were very misleading (a reference about German silver) and did not reveal anything. The watch is indeed a time-only 41.3mm dive instrument that does not make space for a date; the 6 o’clock position is instead occupied by the mil-spec water-resistance mark (denoting if moisture has compromised the case) of the military watches of the 1960s.
Going For Bronze
Some experts point to 1967 specifically, while Blancpain only included a reference to a 1964 model. Blancpain’s reference to the 1964 model is all that Blancpain mentions. However, some experts point specifically to 1967. Although there are no complex twists to this watch, it does have a new movement. However, the case itself, which is bronze-gold, is quite remarkable. This could be a nod to the bronzed look that was once associated with places like Cannes as well as the aged appearance of professional and amateur sailors. You are not dreaming if bronze gold looks familiar to you.
Bronze gold is a material that was introduced by Omega in 2021. Both brands are owned by the Swatch Group, so it’s not surprising that this material is now available at Blancpain. In fact, we feel this is a fair exchange of expertise, given that Blancpain supplies the know- how behind Omega’s groundbreaking Chrono Chime. The Fifty Fathoms Act 3 was designed to have a vintage feel, just like all bronze watches. On the other hand, this is not regular bronze… As a quick recap and update on bronze gold, here is what you need to know: The gold in the alloy makesup 37.5 percent of the total material, with copper making up the majority (50 percent). Silver, palladium, and gallium are the remaining materials.
Read More: Ode To Elegance: Blancpain’s Ladybird Collection is an Innovation of Watchmaking
Anyone who intends to wear the watch should be aware that it will patina, but not to the extent of bronze. Blancpain claims that it can be worn directly against the skin. Rumours and social media reports from the launch suggest that the bronze gold used by Omega and Blancpain may have minor differences. Furthermore, it seems the exclusivity of bronze gold will remain with Blancpain for the near term – again this is based on unconfirmed remarks at the launch, by Blancpain representatives. This may not be the case, but we encourage all prospective buyers to ask Blancpain’s product experts as many questions as possible.
Tempestuous References
You might be wondering why 555 pieces in particular. Blancpain points us in the direction of Ariel’s Song from The Tempest (William Shakespeare), where the name Fifty Fathoms emerged in 1953. The line is “Full fathom five thy father lies,” so perhaps 555 is some sort of alliterative tribute… For those who care about such matters, this means that there will be more Act 3 watches out there than Act 1 pieces. The imbalance will be interesting, but it is not yet causing alarm in the collectors community.
Perezscope has been causing a lot of controversy about the Fifty Fathoms, and they are dragging up dead horses to flog them again. It’s been conveniently forgotten that the Fifty Fathoms was the first watch to have a unidirectional dial. How it could be a replica of anything else is beyond our comprehension. It is enough to say that our opinions on this matter are not applicable to the Final Fathoms. The case material and design characteristics are. In that regard, we are able to say that the shape of the watch case and lugs is new. Although it is obviously a round timepiece, its design is unique.
The Final Fathoms is a challenge for those who can only wear 42mm watches without an overhang. The exhibition caseback showcases a new evolution of movement for Blancpain, with the calibre 1154.P2 featuring an escapement with silicon hairspring and a new escape wheel in antimagnetic alloys – Blancpain did not say what exactly this alloy is, but we remain curious as to why the brand does not simply use the Breguet and Omega solution of more silicon-based parts for the balance assembly. The alloy could be nickel-phosphorus. It was a goal to create an antimagnetic watch that could resist 1,000 Gauss without a protective soft iron case. The calibre 1154.P2 made the cut, and hence the exhibition caseback.
Best in Class
The Blancpain dive watch has a 100-hour power reserve. It is the class leader and reminds everyone that Blancpain remains the market leader when it comes to standard power reserves for mechanical diving watches. The launch event at Cannes was no less significant. The Fifty Fathoms was born in Cannes, which is also the place where the Fifty Fathoms’ inspiration came from. It may be the beginning of recreational diving. It was the international launch that gave the Fifty Fathoms a chance to show off its military heritage and acceptance as a toolwatch. However, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 21st-century has gone beyond those roots. A bronze-gold dive watch may not be a professional tool, but it can still represent professional passions.
Despite not being intended to prove anything, it is important to note that the USD 44,800 price tag will be disappointing for some. We believe that there will be enough demand for Final Fathoms to make the price irrelevant. Blancpain’s Final Fathoms marks an important milestone, and it is likely that more people than 555 will want to own one.
Let’s end with a word about the launch, which was an impressive achievement just because no leaks had been published. Swatch’s collaboration with the Final Fathoms was a major factor in boosting interest. No one had published anything before the Final Fathoms despite the intense curiosity surrounding it. WOW Singapore or Thailand, the two editions of WOW that cover the event from Cannes, did not get the embargoed details in advance. Blancpain has managed to blend its diving heritage with the art of living concept, thanks in part to the Ille Saint-Marguerite and to celebrities such as Laurent Ballesta. For more on this launch, and the exhibition of Blancpain’s ocean commitments at Cannes, see the event story deeper into this issue.
This article first appeared on WOW’s Legacy 2024 issue
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