Of all the tenets of dressing well, ‘do not clash patterns’ seems like one that should always hold water. Deliberately playing around with prints and patterns is to design an outfit that looks like it shouldn’t go together. How can that be fashionable?
Even the most rebellious of subcultures throughout history were loath to mix and match motifs because, in the end, even if you’re advocating chaos and disruption of the status quo, you want to look at least coherent while doing so.
Oh, how times have changed. Dressing with discord is now a badge. Plaids and stripes coexist in harmony for men’s clothing.
But there are still rules to be followed, even if you’re throwing the rulebook out. Use this guide to learn how to mix, clash, and pull off the most striking of fashion clashes.
Learn the basic patterns of play.
Key Patterns
Checks
Checks have become a staple in every wardrobe from suits and knitwear to streetwear.
Checks come in a wide variety of styles and colors, from the subtlest windowpane, Prince of Wales, and herringbone to the bolder buffalo plaid, tartan, and Madras.
A check-on-check look is surprisingly simple to pull off provided both are noticeably different and aren’t competing for attention. “The joy of checks is the infinite variety of combinations if you just apply some imagination,” says stylist Eric Down, who has dressed the likes of David Gandy, Tinie Tempah and Chris Hemsworth. “The key is to vary the size.
“Know your blanket from your plaid and be au fait with houndstooth, gingham, windowpane, Black Watch tartan and Prince of Wales checks. Mix and match. It might seem spooky to combine a dramatic oversized windowpane with a medium-sized blanket check, a micro-sized puppytooth check, and a micro-sized blanket check. [it can be done] well.”
Down suggests clashing check sizes within a color set. “Cream, blues and tan work by varying the dominant color in each check.” It’s all about the checks and balances.
Works best on: Clothing, outerwear and shirts
Work best with Other checks and Microprints
Stripes
The horizontal stripes of the Breton top have long been a menswear favourite (if you’re in any doubt as to why, just watch James Dean in Rebel Without A CauseIn recent years, bars with a vertical orientation have also been gaining popularity.
This used to mean discreet pinstripes on suits and shirts. Now, anything is allowed (within reasonable limits).
“There are three ways to clash stripes with stripes,” says Farfetch fashion features editor Ryan Thompson. “The first is to keep them uniform throughout your outfit. Second, vary the widths of stripes on both your top and trousers. And the third is to wear vertical stripes on your torso and horizontal stripes on your legs.”
Keep the color palette simple for a more sophisticated look. “Perhaps mix shades within the same colour palette, so it looks considered but not too matchy-matchy,” says Down. “Just be prepared to bat back the Beetlejuice jibes if you go for black and white.”
The combination of neutral colors and a tonal look of navy can elevate formal wear to a new level.
Works best on: Casual basics, including trousers and casual tailoring
Work best with Geometric prints and other stripes
Houndstooth
Although houndstooth has been blown up to oversized proportions in the past, it’s typically what’s known as micro-check (in fact, it’s a broken or ‘tessellated’ check, if you want to be pedantic).
Comprising a repeated four-pointed shape designed to resemble and canine’s incisor, it’s often not as visually impactful as a Prince of Wales check or tartan plaid, but it can be an excellent pattern to layer with.
“Most often in a black and white weave, houndstooth (and its smaller puppytooth variant) looks good as part of a monochrome outfit,” says Thompson. “It’s most at home in tailoring, especially on suits and overcoats where the uniformity of the pattern adds to the formality.”
Given that it’s a busy pattern, houndstooth works best with simple, complementary motifs like uniform pinstripes or larger polka dots.
For a go-to smart outfit using houndstooth, put the pattern to work on a neatly cut blazer – fit is key if you are to pull off any daring outfit – and pair with a crisp white shirt and monochrome knitted tie. Winner winner, dog’s dinner.
Works best on: Overcoats and blazers. Tailored trousers.
Work best with Patterns with fewer patterns, such as pinstripes or monochrome prints
Paisley
Four guys named John Paul George Ringo slipped into paisley shirts during the 1960s to make this pattern viral.
Many brands have subsequently used paisley, but it’s still a brave man who can leave the house in the morning dressed head-to-toe in the swirly stuff.
“Paisley is such a busy and intense pattern that in most cases it’s best to tone it down by pulling a single colour from the design and using that elsewhere in your outfit,” says Thompson.
Clashing Paisley is a bolder statement. There are two ways to do it depending on how you feel: the safe and loud way.
The former calls for a pinstripe or polka dot T-shirt – both uniform patterns that don’t try to overpower the paisley. Layering animal prints with luxury fabrics such as leather and layering in animal print is the way to go for an even bigger look. Go big or leave.
Works best on: Accessories, suit details and summer shirts/shorts
Work best with Animal prints and polka dots, stripes
Polka Dots
Until recent decades, polka dots were seen as a traditionally feminine pattern – the term itself even means ‘Polish woman’ in Polish and ‘little girl’ in Czech – but they can take on a playful role in the modern man’s wardrobe.
To give blokes an easy entry into dressing in dots, most brands tend to use them on formal accessories – think ties, pocket squares and socks – allowing the little flashes of colour to pep up traditional suiting.
Because of their round shape, polka dots work well with straight-lined patterns like checks and stripes – for example, a polka dot tie against a gingham shirt. Match your accessories’ color palette to your suit. Let the dots stand out.
Combining a check suit, a pinstripe polka-dot tie and a pinstripe shirts would create a more daring appearance. Keep the color palette consistent throughout to avoid drowning out the patterns.
Works best on: Tie, socks, pockets squares, and shirts
Work best with Pinstripes, muted checks and pinstripes
How To Mix Patterns – The Rules
Mixing the Same Pattern
Play with proportions when you’re mixing different variations of the pattern. What this means is that if you’re wearing a windowpane check suit, which typically has large squares, match this with a smaller gingham check shirt or tie.
“Stay within a tight colour palette and allow the different sizes of the pattern to do the heavy lifting,” says Thompson. “The same goes with stripes. If you prefer the idea of separates, mix up the thickness of the vertical stripes in your trousers and top.”
A pattern can be changed in direction, as well as the thickness. This is straight from the style playbook. Layer a horizontal stripe t-shirt underneath a vertical stripe shirt.
Mixing Patterns
Mixing multiple patterns in the same outfit may seem like a style tip on par with buying a pair bootcut jeans. It is possible to pull off this look, as long as you do it with confidence.
The rules of proportion and cohesive colour palettes apply here, too, but there’s an extra one: your patterns should be as different as possible. Instead of polka dot and puppytooth patterns, choose stripes and florals.
Layering is the key. Open a buffalo-check overshirt and wear a graphic print T shirt or striped sweater beneath for a streetwear feel. You can also wear a plaid blazer with a hoodie, side-striped track pants and sneakers.
Mixing Multiple Patterns
Have you mastered a couple of patterns? Get ready to play in the big leagues. “If you get this right it will be Instagram gold,” says Down, “but get it wrong and you are going to look clownish.”
Mixing multiple patterns is not as simple as throwing everything in a mixer, hoping for the best. It requires planning. “You want one small, one medium and one large bold pattern,” says Down.
You don’t have to use all of them on your clothing. A patterned accessory can easily be added to an outfit as a way to add a third theme. “The aim is that it looks like it all came together naturally without too much thought,” says Down.
Expert Tips for Pattern Mixing
Tonal is tried and tested
Maintaining a consistent palette is always wise when you’re mixing patterns. You can add colour in the future with accessories, or even smaller details such as collars or linings that contrast. Either way, if the rest of your outfit is all in line, you’ll invariably look well put-together.
Etro
Play with Proportion
It’s important to consider the size of your pattern, especially if you are clashing it with another. Think about contrasting stripes and checks.
It’s the same when you mix patterns. A gingham shirt can be paired with a tie that is thicker. Proportions are just one more trick to make people take notice.
New Look
Go Outre On Outerwear
A statement coat is exactly that – a loud, visible statement to the outside world about who you are. To get the maximum impact from your outerwear, keep your boldest prints to yourself.
You can layer more muted prints underneath for a versatile indoor look. Just ensure it still all ties together when you’re not.
Tommy Hilfiger Tailored
Find Clothes that Do the Clashing for You
Patchwork jeans are one of the many styles that have been influenced by the trend of workwear.
This isn’t just limited to chore jackets. Even something simple like a shirt with multiple patterns can make your everyday outfits look contemporary and new.
Topman
Three Pattern Combining Looks
Smart Phones
Any variation of a check suit is sure to turn heads. It’s flamboyant without being too (pea)cocky, and has always looked modern in every era it has been worn in.
Add a striped necktie and polka-dot pocket square for a hint of Italian ease. Don’t forget to use a simple color scheme.
Smart-Casual
Toeing the line between smart and casual can be tricky at the best of times, but throw patterns into the mix and you’ve got a whole new hurdle to deal with.
Here, the trick is to make sure that the components of your outfit are still grounded in the classics. In this case, you can get away with stripes and floral prints because they’re on smart separates and grounded with a staple white tee.
Enjoy the Casual Feeling
Even on non-working days, you can use multiple patterns to add style and flair to a simple outfit.
It doesn’t get more streetwear than a hoodie worn with a pair of side-stripe track pants. A check coat or blazer can instantly elevate the level of luxury.
