John Lennon. Hunter S. Thompson Kurt Cobain. What are they all like? Apart from the fact they all had enough laughs, screams, and ups to knock an elephant out, there is one thing that unites them. Their sunglasses. They didn’t just look cool in them, they were iconic.
Vintage sunglasses have become a huge business in recent years, thanks to the influence of celebrities. “Film and music videos are both big influences on people’s interest in vintage eyewear,” explains John Morris, opticals expert and owner of London-based historic eyewear haven Kings Cross Eyes. “Think James Dean and Johnny Depp in Tarte Optical, famous rappers in vintage Gianni Versace and, of course, Steve McQueen in Persol.”
Over the course of history, the sunglasses that hid famous faces became so strongly associated with their appearance that they became a part and parcel of the person. So much so that if someone was to pop a pair of white, acetate-framed Christian Roths on a watermelon and ask you who it looked like, you’d probably reply ‘oh, it’s the guy out of Nirvana’.
But there’s another reason vintage sunglasses are so sought after, too. “They were simply made better,” says Morris. “They used higher quality, heavier acetate, hand-made components and glass as opposed to plastic lenses.” This robustness meant that there was a time when sunglasses literally felt different. “As an example you need to compare modern, Luxottica-produced Ray-Ban with original Bausch & Lomb American-made Ray-Ban,” Morris continues. “There really is a massive gulf.”
Unfortunately, most of us aren’t in a financial position to procure a pair of original 1950s aviators. Which is why we’ve rounded up some of the best sunglasses from history along with who they’d suit, how to wear them and a few similar, modern styles to suit every budget, from baller to beach bum.
JFK’s American Optical Saratoga
It’s no secret that former president Kennedy liked to sport a pair of pristine, tortoiseshell Wayfarers on the regular. What’s somewhat lesser known is that they were never actually Wayfarers at all.
The Saratoga from American Optical was JFK’s eyewear of choice, and one of the most iconic frames ever to have graced a presidential face. The company doesn’t make them any more but you style and shape have, unsurprisingly, become common amongst other sunglasses brands.
Who?
This shape is somewhat of a blend. It’s angular, yet has rounded elements – a unique combination that makes it one of the only styles capable of working perfectly across the whole spectrum of face shapes. Round, oval, square, triangle, hexagon – whatever your bone structure, this frame is a failsafe option.
How?
If you’re really committing to the whole JFK thing then a navy blue or charcoal grey tailored suit is the only way to go. Saratoga’s shape isn’t a one trick pony. It is a versatile option for everyday wear when paired with a T-shirt, jeans and a pair of sneakers.
Modern Styles
Kurt Cobain’s 1993 Christian Roth Archive
Jesse Frohman photographed Kurt Cobain, the frontman of Nirvana in 1993. He wore a pair white round-framed shades. These images became some of the most iconic shots of the grunge icon, immortalizing his Christian Roth sunglasses and inspiring countless copies for decades.
Who?
You don’t have to be a professional stylist nor an eyewear connoisseur to realise that this frame is not one for the faint of heart. The pronounced, round shape will work best for guys with oval, square or heart-shaped faces but the most important factor in pulling off a style this brash is to wear it with total balls-out confidence à la Cobain. The floral blouse can be left at home.
How?
Acetate-framed shades with bold frames make a statement. Which means unless you’re Iris Apfel (which let’s face it, you probably aren’t) the rest of your outfit should be simple and stripped back. Let your sunglasses do all the talking. Or “do the shouting” might be more apt in this case.
Modern Styles
John Lennon’s NHS 422CJ
The instantly recognisable, round, wire-framed specs of every aging hippy’s favourite Beatle should really need no introduction. Lennon’s trademark glasses are each and every bit as famous as his music and the style became an integral part of the fashion landscape throughout the 1970s.
Who?
The first thing you’ll notice about the style is that it is unapologetically round. If you have trouble hitting the bowling alleys without someone trying their fingers in your nose or throwing you down a lanes, then these shades are not for you. If you are more angular like Lennon, then go for it.
How?
Unless you’re deliberately going full hipster, wire-framed specs are probably best left in the past. Opt for a frame that is round, but made of acetate or thicker material. Try black with tailoring, transparent for the weekend, or, for a versatile option that’ll go with both, stick to tortoiseshell for best results.
Modern Styles
Steve McQueen’s Persol 0714
With their light havana frame, folding design and crystal blue lenses, Steve McQueen’s Persol 714s were instantly recognisable in a sea of similar, 60s silhouettes. McQueen wearing them in Thomas Crown Affair His personal collection has sold pairs for as high as $70,000.
Who?
These styles are best for people with rectangular or square-shaped faces, due to their curved edges and sloping eyebrows. Although they’ll still look great on rounder face shapes too as the keyhole design maintains an angular element.
How?
McQueen, the man who made these shoes famous, wore them with a three-piece checked suit, a Harrington jacket, knitwear, and chinos. Even though they are 50 years old, these two styles would still have street style photographers swooning today.
Modern Styles
Hunter S. Thompson’s Ray-Ban Shooter
From setting boats ablaze while high on psilocybin to having his ashes fired out of a cannon by Johnny Depp, gonzo-journalism founder Hunter S. Thomson’s life was anything but normal. It’s only natural that the eyewear he chose would also be unusual. His tinted Ray-Ban Shooters, for which he is best known, were the perfect choice.
Who?
This frame style extends down to the cheeks. If you’re not blessed with high cheekbones, aviator-style shades like these should be given a wide berth as they can make the face look droopy. Aside from that you’re good to go.
How?
Self-confidence is key. As with the Cobain-style glasses above, these eye-catching specs can’t be pulled off if you have any reservations about whether or not you look good in them. Wear them proudly, without shame and preferably with a Hawaiian shirt.
Al Pacino’s 1983 Linda Farrow 6031
Suffice to say there was no shortage of sunglasses in Tony Montana’s collection. However, the pair that every eyewear enthusiast dreams of getting their hands on is the Linda Farrow 6031s that came to define the opulent 1980s style of Miami’s most ruthless drug lord. As far as iconic movie shades go it doesn’t get much better than this.
Who?
Thankfully, you don’t need to be a hardened criminal in order to pull off a pair of sunnies similar to Montana’s. The aviator frame will suit most face shapes. However, as mentioned earlier, if those cheekbones aren’t on point, you may be better off opting for something that sits a little higher up the face instead.
How?
To get the 1980s Miami look you can pair this style with light chinos, white jeans, or a Cuban collared shirt. Then, top it off with brown Derby shoes, or tassel-adorned loafers.
