Rolex is a brand that we are very familiar with. Rolex has won yet another day, for instance. As you can see, Rolex’s main focus seems to be on gold, but they also have a new Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II that is worth checking out. Obviously, we will have more to say about Rolex later but we will make the point here about some discontinued models and then say no more about it…well ok no more for now.
The rumours about the demise of the beloved bezel on the Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II have been dispelled. Take that, rumour mongers. The picture also shows no new Milgauss (so, I won’t use its name as it is essentially non-existent). So ends my personal bias here. Sadly, the Yacht-Master II is no more. It was a quirky chronograph from a major manufacturer. We hear that all palm and fluted dial motifs are also gone, and that will indeed darken some people’s moods.
It is possible to say a great deal about watches from the past. The biggest name in fine watchmaking has a huge advantage when it comes to the start of the new season. Rolex will appeal to anyone who has even a passing interest in mechanical contemporary watchmaking. Even if the first news from the brand at Watches and Wonders Geneva does not resonate, at least you can now move on…
Read More: The Dynamism Of The TAG Heuer Monaco Half Seconds Chronograph
We had also already decided that the TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds and the Roger Dubuis Central Tourbillon Orbis In Machina were our top two brand appointments for this year. On the first watch, we cover it more extensively elsewhere but reference it here because a new chronograph from TAG Heuer must win the day…except for the earlier note. Take a look at the new calibre TH8100 that was developed by Vaucher and directed by Carole Forestier Kasapi, director of TAG-Heuer movements. This is an interesting story that started with a unique and special project.
On the other hand, the Roger Dubuis Central Tourbillon is both something of a staple for the brand and a special creation – not many watchmakers attempt the central tourbillon and not one does so in such theatrical fashion. The watch is a showcase of the Hallmark de Geneve, also known as the Poincon de Geneve. All the fine finishing touches that are emblematic of Geneva watchmaking can be found in the calibre RD 115.
Poincon de Geneve honors the quality and design of the whole watch, rather than just one part. A watch that is Hallmarked of Geneva can be a good way to begin your Geneva watchmaking journey. It was certainly a great way to begin our tour. Orbis in Machina has been added to the Roger Dubuis Collection. It is the first time a central tourbillon was included. In this particular version, only 88 are planned for production.
We have to give a quick introduction of another Geneva watchmaker: Patek Philippe. Tomorrow is our appointment, but it would be a shame to miss the day one of this watch fair without sharing what this titan has revealed. Ref. 5330G-010, the world’s first worldtimer that syncs local time with the date. Tomorrow, we’ll have more on this.
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