LONDON FASHION WOMAN A/W 2024 TEMPERLEY LONDON, ROKSANDA, SIMONE ROCHA, ERDEM, MOLLY GODDART, BURBERRY

 

 

Image credit London Fashion Week. Vogue. WWD. and Hypeeast.

 

London Fashion Week saw all-out effort by the big names in the industry. Burberry, Simone Rocha, Erdem et al give us a solid taster of what we’d be wearing come Autumn 2024. To boot, 2024 celebrates the 4^Th decade of London Fashion Week with over 40 shows and 15 presentations – a visual feast of epic proportions, and some celebration it was!

We were given a peek into the key trends for the next season – some were quintessentially British and quirky, other trends we’ve seen gradually gaining fashion momentum and maturing over the past few seasons at the respective fashion weeks across the globe.

As for the key accessory of the moment – it has to be the bow! This frivolous party accessory was seen at Erdem, Molly Goddart You can also find out more about the following: Richard Quinn In all sizes, colors and shapes.

Over the last few seasons, faux fur has appeared in many winter collections. But this year it was put on a pedestal. RoksYou can also find out more about the following:a, Burberry and David Koma This trend is a great way to get cozy, and so did Simone Rocha.

At the show, transparent and sheer chiffon fabrics were displayed. Simone Rocha, David Koma You can also find out more about the following: Eudon Choi – another trend we’ve been keeping a keen eye on over the past few seasons.

Statement prints made a bold entrance – Erdem, Ahluwalia You can also find out more about the following: Sinead Gorey The printed surface can be designed to look as easy in winter as they do in summer.

It goes without saying that LFW wouldn’t be LFW without the avant-garde and the experimental, and indeed the quirkiest of forward-thinking design was bravely on show, particularly showcased by the students of the legendary St Martins.

These trends – classic and avant-garde – will inevitably find their way into the high streets and into our wardrobes – look out for them! For now, enjoy our selection of the best shows.

 

TEMPERLEY LONDON

Alice Temperley presented a kaleidoscope of bohemian West Country-influenced pieces at the fabulous Claridge’s Hotel. The event was glamorous.

Leopard prints in every delicious shade, Temperley’s trademark sequins, teeny weeny bias cut slip dresses, bell-sleeved frocks, metallic velvet sheaths, tuxedos, sumptuous silk house coats and thigh high boots were the backbone of a collection that was, above all, self-indulgently joyous.

These are uber sexy pieces – but at the same time they oozed a mix of understated flamboyance and opulent vintage luxe. This was like being invited by Kate Moss to the ultimate Boho Chic party in town. Just click here to learn more. Right for the occasion. The Western-inspired paraphernalia – the embroidered shoulder pieces, frilly ‘madam of the saloon’- polka dot dresses, the bows and statement hats give the pieces that last authentic kick. Just in case you didn’t clock the theme.

 

ROKSANDA

Watch Roksanda’s show here:

High drama ensued at Tate Britain where Roksanda Ilinčić showed her highly anticipated collection. The collection was inspired by Le Corbusier’s murals at his cabin in the south of France. The colours, the shapes and the forms of these pieces were certainly closer to works of art & architecture than simply fashion – albeit exquisite fashion.

The dresses, which were draped in the style of Greek goddesses, rubbed shoulders against stunning sculptural gowns with their oversized piping. As part of the embellishments were oversized zips as well as waist-cinching ties on the 3-piece suits.

On the runway the swishy and floaty were cleverly juxtaposed to neatly tailored suit. Artful hand-painted surface design was seen on asymmetrical gowns – a feature we’ve seen many times in Roksanda’s collections. One of the most striking pieces is the chartreuse Cinderella gown, with its twists and turn and bustiere.

 

ERDEM

Erdem Moralioglu’s tribute to opera singer Maria Callas was bold and theatrical, just like the icon herself. Says Moraglioglu, “I was inspired by Medea and the life of Maria Callas, she is an example of woman and femininity that fascinated me. It’s like the phoenix that is reborn from its own ashes. In the collection I tried to capture and translate her gestures and the way she wore clothes into my clothes using drapes that fall and caress the décolleté, majestic robe manteau, and silk pajamas which nevertheless maintained continuity with her attitude both in her professional and private life”.

This is an incredibly feminine collection. Shawl dresses, gowns with long trains, marabou feather coats, bejewelled shoes, sheer dresses with ruffles, coats with triangular sculpted collars, oversized bows on dresses, pyjama-style co-ords with velvet trims and Moraglioglu’s signature vintage-inspired floral dresses were just some of the pieces showcased at the British Museum.

Moraglioglu’s signature prints and 1950s silhouettes were seen on coats, dresses and pyjama suits. Endearing and nostalgic, this season’s offering yet again reaffirms that this designer creates for women, and the women who wear his creations feel just as special as the icons who inspire his collections.

 

BURBERRY

Watch Burberry’s show here:

London Fashion Week – and the world – held their breaths for the highly anticipated Burberry show under the creative direction of Daniel Lee to get underway.

Every quirky detail is British. Think English country set, think classic countryside dressing – the duffels, the bomber jackets, the ‘Barbour’ coats, the leather car coats, the waistcoats and scarves, they were all there, but all came with a quirky twist. The bomber jacket, for example, was entirely constructed from fringed wool, the car coat had exaggerated plaid wool button stands embellishments, the trench coat came with chunky shaggy fringe hems, V-neck jumpers were daringly low cut and scarves were maxi with their fringes sweeping the floor…

As well as trousers with their large zippers, long leather skirts featured sexy fasteners that exposed plenty of leg. Boots were either skin tight or sagging downwards in fashionable folds. Then add some furry hold-alls with oversized sleeves and hoods, as well as the famous Burberry plaid peeking from under the sleeves and hoodies. The neutral palette of brown and khaki was brought to life with a bright red tartan. Oh, and scarves doubled as hoods – a new trend!

This is undoubtedly utilitarian outerwear, but oh-so-covetable and so ‘now’. Think traditional Burberry mixed with a hint of grunge, and you’ve nailed the look.

 

SIMONE ROCHA

Watch a snippet of Simone Rocha’s show here:

Dublin designer Simone Rocha filled St Bartholomew church with her now iconic fashion: ‘The Wake’ is what she chose to name her latest collection.

Rocha’s signature punk Victoriana silhouettes were yet again at centre stage, but this time she focused on how mourning gear acted as “… a uniform, a security blanket” and went to great lengths to explore the role of undergarments and pieces that were closest to the skin, used as comforters during traumatic events. Some models even carried 3-D soft toys, the ultimate comforters.

A whopping 50 different looks were featured in Rocha’s show. Nude tulle short suits, their jackets topped with faux fur and embellished with sequins, shared the runway with loose-fitting satin ‘wee willy winky’ nightdresses with oversized bows and sheer faux fur-hemmed capes. Under many of the see through tunics, corsets were worn.

Key colours were ice blue, pastel green and mid-brown faux hair. They looked stunning against the soft, warm and comfortable faux fur. The faux fur dresses and coats with sequin embellishments were definitely the most striking pieces. The look was completed by a pair of tumbling earrings.

 

MOLLY GODDART

Watch Molly Goddart’s show here:

The AW 2024 collection by a designer who has a strong signature style is simply delightful.

Molly Goddart blatantly admits That she gives women (and men) the green light to indulge and overdress – and this offering with its unabashed deep, bright colours and voluminous frilled tulle skirts does just that. The colour combinations in each ensemble are inspired – take for example the lipstick red and baby pink ensemble complete with two-tone red and pink brogues, or the symphony in deepest blackberry and lavender – simply edible!

The silhouettes haven’t changed from previous seasons – they remained voluminous and shapely. The season’s key trend – the bow – features in many pieces as does contrasting piping as seen on coats.

All in all, this is simply a joyous celebration – and how befitting that it coincides with London Fashion Week’s epic 40^th birthday!