Zenith defies expectations once again with the extremely reflective Defy Extreme Mirror, which is another iteration of the brand’s ultra-high frequency chronograph. Chronograph collectors and watch enthusiasts will recognize this as a variation on the dual escapement dual mainspring 1/100.Th The second chronograph has now become the only chronograph of this type in series production. The calibre 9004 was introduced in 2017 as part of the El Primero 21. This is the jewel at the core of this horological masterpiece. In a minute, we will get back to the movement, but for now, let’s focus on its form.
Highly polished tool watches are nothing new but the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror takes reflective surfaces to a new level, if the pictures are anything to go by (we will be shooting this watch soon so look to the coming issue of WOW Singapore for our thoughts on the watch in the metal – Ed). Zenith calls the Extreme Mirror the “ultimate, ultramodern camouflage watch” and we can only think that this means that the watch will have a sort of chrome-like finish, despite being entirely cased in stainless steel. Consider the sheen on certain iconic contemporary watches by brands like Chanel and Rado, which were made from ceramic.
Zenith, a company that is not afraid to experiment with materials, has chosen to use the same steel for everything, from the crown and chronopushers to the case middle and bezel. You can see that this steel appears to have been polished so well as to be difficult for the eye. Zenith offers a variety of options, including a bracelet that looks great but is also available in other colors. The Extreme Mirror comes with the usual interchangeable straps and two extra straps – rubber with folding buckle or Velcro.
Zenith touts camouflage credentials for the Extreme Mirror because of its potential brilliance. We think this watch could be the exact opposite of Hublot’s stealth all black watch, while essentially having a similar effect. The model’s bright colors could render it indistinct, save for the chronograph and timing functions. Due to the multi-leveled dial with its three-dimensional mirror effect, the SuperLuminova SLN C1 openworked hands and markers as well as the chronograph track all seem to hover in an ethereal way. This is to keep everything nice and legible.
For those who don’t remember, this is the quick summary of the chronograph. The chronograph movement is two watches in one. One part (powered by 5 Hz) keeps the regular time, and the other part (powered 50 Hz) runs the chronograph. Each part has its own mainspring, so any 1/100Th El Primero 9004 is a two-movement watch. This means that clutch systems are not needed, nor is it a modular design. Owners should be aware that the chronograph is manual-winding and runs on its train. It is for this reason that the chronograph with its smaller power reserve has its own power reserves indicator on the dial.
Finally, the Extreme Mirror bears the distinction of a new naming convention, with Zenith choosing to drop the ‘21’ from the name; it was called the Defy El Primero 21 in 2017, and was most recently available in the Defy 21 Chroma guise (the only version still in stock, according to the Zenith website). As opposed to some previous iterations, the 1/100Th Due to the addition of a secondary chronograph, this Extreme Mirror watch is not limited. Zenith also offers it in Zenith stores and online.
Movement: El Primero 9004 chronograph with dual escapement; 50 hour power reserve only (time); 50 minute power reserve only (chronograph)
Case: Water-resistant up to 200m in 45mm mirror-polished stainless steel
Strap: Polished steel bracelet with folding clasp, plus two additional – rubber and Velcro
Price: CHF25,900
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