Again, salicylic acid is an excellent choice—it’s anti-inflammatory and works by reducing the production of sebum (oil) that contributes to clogged pores, Dr. Lebowitz adds.9, 10 Both recommend glycolic acids, which have been proven to reduce acne.5, 11
Eczema or Rosacea-prone Skin
If you’re dealing with either of these chronic inflammatory conditions, it’s important to see a board-certified dermatologist about how often—if at all—you should exfoliate. “I wouldn’t recommend doing it at home unless you discuss it with your doctor first,” Dr. Castilla says She especially cautions against physical scrubs (which, again, can be particularly abrasive).
According to the National Eczema Association, people with eczema already have a damaged barrier on their skin, which is why they may experience symptoms such as cracking or peeling. Over-exfoliation can cause flare-ups. Rosacea sufferers have sensitive skin and are easily irritated, so over-exfoliating can cause irritation, redness and stinging.
That doesn’t mean exfoliants are entirely off-limits, though. Speak to your dermatologist, or primary care provider if you are one. Dr. Castilla claims that these professionals can provide better (and more safe) guidance.
What’s the best method for exfoliating your face?
Let’s start with physical exfoliation products. According to Dr. Lebowitz, most of these products are cleanser, so they should be used on damp skin. She also recommends applying them gently and in circular motions (as you normally would when washing your face) and rinsing thoroughly when you’re done. Oh, and avoid dry brushing altogether—Dr. Castilla and Dr. Lebowitz agree that it’s too harsh for the fragile cheeks, forehead, and eye area.
According to both dermatologists, chemical exfoliants should only be used on dry skin at night. Dr. Castilla says that the skin repairs itself naturally while you sleep. Exfoliating before bed will help this process, by removing dead cells and allowing for new ones to surface.12 Exfoliating your face during the day, no matter which acid you choose, can leave it more susceptible to sun damage.13
Whether you physically or chemically exfoliate, you should avoid using strong actives, like additional exfoliating acids, acne treatments, retinol, other retinoids, or vitamin C, at the same time—all of which can be harsh and may increase sensitivity.14 It’s also a good idea to avoid added fragrances, which can similarly cause irritation, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.