To know Balenciaga is to know the French house’s origin of haute couture. While the Maison momentarily shifted away from its fine dressmaking in favour of commercial prêt-à-porter, 2021 saw creative director Demna return the House to its roots. As the House expands its physical couture quarters at the iconic Avenue George V — a space helmed by Cristóbal Balenciaga as office, runway, and home — the question of couture’s longevity is begged: will history repeat itself?
Fashion industry is based on brand growth, sales and clout. Would there then be space for couture to coexist, much less thrive? The Avenue George V itself was constructed deliberately. Modernised finishes are incorporated without dramatically overwriting the House’s heritage.
Demna’s signature darkness (in the form of smoked-glass cabinetry) is a clear indication of futurism. The new expansion hosts couture clients as well as ateliers for the brand. This signals a higher-level approval of the revived division.
To question the intention behind the couture venture, is to understand what theatrics is all about. The recent Fall ’23 couture collection was widely discussed — perhaps partly for the enduring discourse of its 2022 scandal — but more so for the show’s closing look: a 3D-printed, chrome armour gown. Like a metaphor for Balenciaga’s reverence for then and now, the gown was reflective in underscoring its sensibilities for new-age craftsmanship that exalts a historic dressmaking past.
Digitally, it was “Another Cool Age Thing”. But in an age where social currency reigns supreme, Balenciaga’s “cool thing” crown earns it just enough capital to cement its spot among Gen Z favourites. Regardless of how Balenciaga’s trompe l’oeil jeans sell, its amped-up couture homecoming signposts a new revenue stream: online fanfare.
This article was first seen on Men’sFolio.com
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